FMJ and LRN down the same barrel

[Gatorade]

I guess this would be in the reloading section because it is a question about bullets. Talking to Matt earlier about some reloading I was doing for my range trip this weekend and mentioned I was loading some of my cast lead .45 bullets for the Rock Island 1911. He said that lead isn't too good in 1911s. I have thought lead would not be reccomended in anything with a gas port because shavings could block the port. However 1911 is a straight barrel. I know some say switching back and forth could lead to some lead, and copper fouling layering on top of each other but what about just lead?

[Lonestar grips.]

I shoot lead in my 1911's without any problems. as long as your lead isn't too soft and the bullets are sized correctly then you should be ok.

fyi, bevel base bullets are more prone to leading since gases can more easily get past the base and soften the lead causing it to streak. if the leading isn't too severe you can shoot a few jacketed bullets and it should clean out your barrel.

if you have severe leading then you can use Copper Chore Boy cleaning pads wrapped around an old bore brush for a snug fit. Make sure that you use the Chore Boy brand. The off brands may just be copper washed steel and scratch your barrel up.

[AFJuvat]

Lead bullets tend to suffer nose damage in sem-autos, reducing their accuracy.

Generally not a problem if the alloy is hard enough.

[Riverpigusmc]

I load and shoot lead. Like Dick Goesinya said, take a magnet with ya and buy real Chore Boy. Wilson Combat has a video about it

[Gatorade]

Thanks for the input. I cast using wheel weights and have been told that is harder than pure lead. I did shoot some FMJ through it but with free lead I will be shooting more .45 cast. I run them through a Lee .451 sizer. They come out with a flat base.

I was contemplating shooting lead in my M&P40C since I already have .401 dies from loading 38-40. However since that is my EDC I will keep it with just jacketed ammo. Untill I start experimenting with powder coating .401 cast lead and see that it won't lead my barrel. If I can get the powder coating down good then it would open up more casting for Blackout and others.

[Lonestar grips.]

wheel weights are plenty hard as is for range shooting (generally 9-10 BNH) but if you water drop them they'll be even harder.

powder coating is the best way to go nowadays.

if you're still learning about it I suggest you read through this thread. http://singleactions.proboards.com/thread/17171/powder-coating-question

Dick Thompson aka Sixshot is a Major Handgun hunter and when it comes to cast bullets I trust his word over just about anyone else's.

[Lonestar grips.]

Tank Hoover knows a thing or two about it as well. http://americanhandgunner.com/homebrewed-bullets-and-ways-to-lube-them/

[sdmc530]

Dick Goesinya o busy out laughing every tome i read that.


I have loaded with lead but like already stated accuracy tanked for me so i dont unless its plated.

[DrHenley]

He said that lead isn't too good in 1911s.
Balderdash!

I shoot nothing but lead in my Dan Wesson. I have some 1911s that shoot jacketed only, and some that shoot both. But I use the DW in IDPA, and casting my own bullets is the only way I can afford to practice enough to shoot competitively. I figure about 7 cents per round. That would be $3.50 per box of fifty.

If you use the right powder, have sufficient lube, and the right alloy, and the bullets are the correct size for the bore, leading is reduced tremendously. There is always a little, but it doesn't build up fast if you get everything right. And it helps tremendously if your barrel is high quality with a well polished bore. And if it isn't, just shoot a few thousand cast bullets through it and it will be well polished!

You need a quick powder like Bullseye or Trail Boss to "bump up" the bullet.

I used to use straight wheel weights, but I am now mixing in a little tin and linotype. They aren't hard-cast and the noses do deform slightly, but they are still darned accurate and super reliable.

The best commercial bullets I've used were Oregon Trail Laser-Cast 230 gr round nosed. (when I'm too lazy to cast my own) I have had serious leading (and poor accuracy) with some brands of cast, especially Speer and Remington.

[Gatorade]

Jim, my load is 228gr wheel weights, quenched in a bucket of water, mixed head stamp brass with Remington Large Pistol primer. 5.0 grains of Bullseye. I use liquid alox tumble lube and size to .451.

I was having some issues with my first few batches of reloads because the crimp die was crimping before the bullet was set all the way and it was building up lead around the top rim of the case. With the build up the bullets wouldn't go fully into battery. I learned about the plunk test with the barrel. I still have a couple rounds that were a little tight but the Lee Alox is sticky stuff sometimes.

When I tried using just the bullets as they came out the bullet mold (Lee 452-228-1R) were too big and budged the brass.

Tomorrow is range day so I will update then.

[Riverpigusmc]

Jim, my load is 228gr wheel weights, quenched in a bucket of water, mixed head stamp brass with Remington Large Pistol primer. 5.0 grains of Bullseye. I use liquid alox tumble lube and size to .451.

I was having some issues with my first few batches of reloads because the crimp die was crimping before the bullet was set all the way and it was building up lead around the top rim of the case. With the build up the bullets wouldn't go fully into battery. I learned about the plunk test with the barrel. I still have a couple rounds that were a little tight but the Lee Alox is sticky stuff sometimes.

When I tried using just the bullets as they came out the bullet mold (Lee 452-228-1R) were too big and budged the brass.

Tomorrow is range day so I will update then.

I changed to seat and crimping in separate steps for that very problem. I use a Lee factory crimp die to crimp

[Gatorade]

I changed to seat and crimping in separate steps for that very problem. I use a Lee factory crimp die to crimp

I have one of those that came with my 300BLK dies from Lee but I wasn't able to get it adjusted right. The first few didn't crimp enough but when I adjusted it down it wrinkled the shoulder of the brass. Like it crimped and still pushed down on the bullet or the neck of the brass. Infuriated me because Blackout brass i.e. Expensive or time consuming to produce. I am not that happy with Lee dies and my last three caliber so have been Hornady New Dimension dies. Around $40 on sale and 100 free bullets which I usually get the .308. Factor $6 for shipping and you still get $14 worth of bullets. So the dies end up being $26 and are much better quality than Lee.

I am going to reload a batch of BLK soon so I will watch what I am doing with that factory crimp die.

[DrHenley]

I have one of those that came with my 300BLK dies from Lee but I wasn't able to get it adjusted right.

According to Midway, the 300 Blackout FCD is a collet type rifle die.
https://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/Primary/120/456506.jpg
The rifle FCD is a whole different animal than the pistol FCD. The pistol FCD is a taper crimp die with a "post sizing ring" that insures the loaded case is within specs.


I have rifle FCDs in many different calibers, and it is about the most idiot-proof die ever made. If it is dimensioned correctly and working correctly it is impossible to crush a case, or even to over-crimp, because the shellholder should be pushing on the collet, not on the case. Once the fingers on the collet close, that's as far as you can push the collet into the body.

Take a shell holder, a case, and the FCD and try this:. Put the case in the shellholder and insert the case all the way in the FCD by hand. Does the shellholder contact the collet, or is there brass visible between the shellholder and the collet?

[DaFadda]

I promise.... I won't mention the use of mercury in doing an absolutely perfect job of cleaning out lead from a barrel. I won't say a word about how mercury amalgamates (bonds) with lead and causes it to dissipate in just a few minutes.

This not said... Mercury is a dangerous element, and can cause health concerns if not handled properly. Since most people would not know how to handle it properly, I will not suggest its use to clear lead from a barrel, even if it was in common use as little as 30 years ago.

Just "not" sayin'
Michael

[DrHenley]

Based on your Santa post, I'm pretty sure why your FCD die is not working right.

If you are forming brass from 223, and not reaming or turning the necks, then your necks are way too thick, preventing them from going into the collet. You are essentially turning the FCD die into a conventional crimp die, as which it would work very poorly if at all.

Try some factory 300 BLK brass, I'll bet you get a completely different result.

To crimp the thick necks you might be able to spread the fingers of the collet a little.

[Gatorade]

Had some success and some failures on Sunday, I am still busy cleaning guns and haven't had time to write up how it went. As soon as I can I will update.

I see what you mean about the Lee Crimp die and will also check that out with factory and cut brass.