My Winchester 94 and Question.

[BlackKnight]

So I have a Winchester Model 94 in .30-30.
After some research I was informed it was made some time around ‘51-‘52.
It is very well used, but in great working condition. I was going to refinish it, but was advised against it.

Anyway, I want another lever action and after seeing your guys post on the Henry in .357 I’m getting the itch. Although, I was more leaning towards .45-70. Thoughts?

My 94.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/4f6bbf68e8013b205fee9c3aecbda123.jpg



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[sdmc530]

Super nice gun Tony. DONT do a thing to it if you care about the value. If you want to redue it the value will be lost but sometimes that is not the most pressing issue either. I have been tempted to get my 1964 version blued and made like new again just for the fun of it but. But for value reasons leave it as is. They are amazing guns I have two, a 1964 and a 1942. Both in fair shape but don't leave the safe very often.

I have always wanted to get the 45-70. Such a fun caliber IMO. Not sure if I would get the henry version or the Marlin version either. Both are probably pretty good. If I wouldn't get the 45 70 I would probably stick to the 30.-30. Just a classic round for the lever gun. I do wan the henry .22 as well.

so many wants!

[Riverpigusmc]

Nice. I have one in .32 Winchester Special made in 1960 my great uncle used to hunt mule deer..45-70 is a thumper and expensive to shoot, I believe

[BlackKnight]

so many wants!
I know!

Nice. I have one in .32 Winchester Special made in 1960 my great uncle used to hunt mule deer..45-70 is a thumper and expensive to shoot, I believe
Sweet!

[RKP]

...... DONT do a thing to it if you care about the value ......

^^ This!!

I have one in 35cal, great brush gun !!

[Caleb]

I agree with the rest, don’t refinish it. But, in the end it’s your gun to do what you feel right doing with it. It’s a beautiful rifle.

I would prefer the 357 mag, this way you can shoot 38 special out of it for a fun range day. Just my $0.02


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[Gatorade]

In my book there are three reasons to refinish a gun, first is because it is deteriorating, such as rust and you are stopping it from getting worse. Second you are going to use and shoot it a lot and need it to go bang every time. Third is pure vanity and you just want a sparkly new finish.

The third reason is the easiest to remedy. You can buy an actual new gun or previously refinished gun like a Henry or a Trumbull and have that brand new finish. Especially since good refinishing cost good money.

I don’t think my second reason applies here. We all know you have a safe full of shooters so this one doesn’t need to be the one you put in charge of defending yourself or putting food on the table with.

The first reason is the hardest to decide. If you have a valuable antique that is losing value and condition then I think it would need to be addressed. However I would make sure the repair is with as minimal impact on the rest of the gun.

[Horse'nround]

Sweet little gun. Mine is a 71' in 30-30. They're nice guns to have just because of the history. My vote is Don't touch it. Love it for what is. Every mark is a story, whether you know the story or not when you pick it up it talks to you.
I got to hold an 86' once at a gun show. OOoooo! Makes me shudder just thinking about it. I guess the owner could tell I was dying to touch it. He said go ahead and pick it up. It was standing up in the original finger jointed wood box with the Winchester name still on it and box of UMC 45-90's at the bottom, the lead bullets were fuzzy white with time. A well worn leather saddle scabbard was on the table in front of it with a placard telling its story. When my hand touched the forearm it was like an electric shock went through me. The rifle was covered with patina and the octagon barrel heavily pitted and had some smooth ware marks from the scabbard. As the story goes, the guy is the 4th generation owner. His great grandfather got the gun in 1887 in either Texas or Oklahoma to work a cattle drive. He drove cattle form Texas to Montana in to the late 1890's before getting his own ranch in Wyoming. I couldn't begin to imagine the stories that gun could tell. To hold a of piece history like that!! Coolest day at a gun show EVER!!

Don't take away it's stories.

[Lonestar grips.]

nice rifle Tony. pre 64 models are very desirable so if it were me I would not refinish it.

Henry makes a fine rifle and you can't go wrong with one. two other options would be a Rossi model 92 or a Marlin 1894. I've heard a lot of great things about the Rossi and on the Marlins it can be hit or miss. when Remington bought them out the quality really tanked but I have heard they are getting better. and I believe this year they are reintroducing the 1894 in the 357. of course if you can find an older JM stamped gun it's bound to be a shooter.

[BlackKnight]

Thanks guys!
There are some areas of pitting and rust. The guy I bought it from took it from a guys who just threw and kept in the trunk of his car.
Still, I will keep it as is.

[sdmc530]

Thanks guys!
There are some areas of pitting and rust. The guy I bought it from took it from a guys who just threw and kept in the trunk of his car.
Still, I will keep it as is.

glad to hear this. You can treat the issues to keep it from getting worse. However overtime if it gets bad enough a redue might still be in order. I am a fan of never messing with history!

Good luck.

[AFJuvat]

Thanks guys!
There are some areas of pitting and rust. The guy I bought it from took it from a guys who just threw and kept in the trunk of his car.
Still, I will keep it as is.

As it happens, I do firearms restoration as a hobby.

I agree, if it is a piece that has collectable value, it should be left as original as possible.

But, to expand on what Charlie was mentioning earlier, there are two different techniques for restoring a firearm.

Restoration: Bringing the firearm back to a new or original state.

For your rifle, this would not be appropriate, but the second option:

Preservation: Stopping or halting active deterioration of the firearm or its components while preserving as much of the original finish as possible.

If you have active rust on the firearm, it needs to be removed and halted.

Try this for a low impact method of removing the rust, stopping any further rust, and still keeping the finish original.

Brush off any loose rust.
Clean/degrease the areas completely. Use denatured alcohol or acetone.

Once it is degreased, do not touch the areas without wearing gloves.

Boil DISTILLED water on your stove.

Either submerge the part in the boiling water (it it is small enough) or hold the part in the steam for 15 - 20 minutes.

If everything was cleaned correctly, the red rust should turn to a dark blue-black, which is magnetite.

Rub off any dust with 0000 steel wool

Coat the area with oil Dirty motor oil works GREAT for this.

Allow it rest for about 24 hours.

Clean off the oil and reassemble.

Congratulations, you just did a repair on your firearm that turned all that red rust into black iron oxide and left everything original.

[RKP]

...... Preservation: Stopping or halting active deterioration of the firearm or its components while preserving as much of the original finish as possible.

If you have active rust on the firearm, it needs to be removed and halted.

Try this for a low impact method of removing the rust, stopping any further rust, and still keeping the finish original.

Brush off any loose rust.
Clean/degrease the areas completely. Use denatured alcohol or acetone.

Once it is degreased, do not touch the areas without wearing gloves.

Boil DISTILLED water on your stove.

Either submerge the part in the boiling water (it it is small enough) or hold the part in the steam for 15 - 20 minutes.

If everything was cleaned correctly, the red rust should turn to a dark blue-black, which is magnetite.

Rub off any dust with 0000 steel wool

Coat the area with oil Dirty motor oil works GREAT for this.

Allow it rest for about 24 hours.

Clean off the oil and reassemble.

Congratulations, you just did a repair on your firearm that turned all that red rust into black iron oxide and left everything original.


GREAT info, thanks for sharing !! http://www.cotep.org/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

[Caleb]

That Juvat guy knows what he is talking about.


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[BlackKnight]

As it happens, I do firearms restoration as a hobby.

I agree, if it is a piece that has collectable value, it should be left as original as possible.

But, to expand on what Charlie was mentioning earlier, there are two different techniques for restoring a firearm.

Restoration: Bringing the firearm back to a new or original state.

For your rifle, this would not be appropriate, but the second option:

Preservation: Stopping or halting active deterioration of the firearm or its components while preserving as much of the original finish as possible.

If you have active rust on the firearm, it needs to be removed and halted.

Try this for a low impact method of removing the rust, stopping any further rust, and still keeping the finish original.

Brush off any loose rust.
Clean/degrease the areas completely. Use denatured alcohol or acetone.

Once it is degreased, do not touch the areas without wearing gloves.

Boil DISTILLED water on your stove.

Either submerge the part in the boiling water (it it is small enough) or hold the part in the steam for 15 - 20 minutes.

If everything was cleaned correctly, the red rust should turn to a dark blue-black, which is magnetite.

Rub off any dust with 0000 steel wool

Coat the area with oil Dirty motor oil works GREAT for this.

Allow it rest for about 24 hours.

Clean off the oil and reassemble.

Congratulations, you just did a repair on your firearm that turned all that red rust into black iron oxide and left everything original.
That. Is. Awesome! Thank you!