My CBOB is not playing nice

[NWDave]

Purchased a DW CBOB earlier this week from a private party who'd bought it as part of a collection. Shell Casing Collected: 06/05/08.

For myself, this is my 4th 1911, the other 3 are 2 STI's (45 and 9MM) and a Para Ord SSP (45).

Have had two range days with over 240 rounds and have experienced a problem with hammer follow. Visual examination did not reveal any glaring parts wear. Did a thorough cleaning of the disconnector area as it was sticking down, but would move with a touch of the trigger. Movement was restored so I went out for the 2nd range day to continue testing.

Problem reoccurred today after about 60 rounds.

We're going to replace the disconnector/sear/mainspring.

A contributing problem is that this particular gun has passed thru 2 hands, that we know of, so much of the history is lost or just "not sure". When this CBOB is funtioning correctly (as it was immediately after the cleaning) it is a tack driver. So, this minor hiccup won't stop me from having another fine pistol.

Anyone got a recommendation for a good source for parts? Someone at the range today mentioned EGW. I have a good friend who's been helping me along with the problem resolution who'll also "teach" me how to be "more smarter" about 1911's and suggested I ask here for sources for the correct parts.

[NAMVET72]

EGW or many other Good sources of Quality Parts, buy them Brownelles if you decide on them........


Clyde

[Mike45]

You might look at Cylinder and Slide (http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=1911_HS) parts I hear nothing but good things about them.

[Jason_G]

EGW, Cylinder and Slide, Wilson, Ed Brown... There are lots of good 1911 parts out there. I can't look at Brownell's site right now (site is blocked at my job), but if I recall correctly (and that's a big "if"), I think they sell some entire ignition parts packages from some of the better manufacturers in the biz. Try to get good tool steel parts so they can be stoned a little if you decide to get a trigger job done later.


Jason

[NWDave]

Since the CBOB uses many Ed Brown components, it would be logical to purchase their products for replacement. A good idea to get some other items (firing pin, recoil spring, etc) in the same shipment as you never know and I'd rather have the backups sitting in a drawer then in someone's storehouse.

Thanks for the advice. I noticed that price difference between Ed Brown and Brownell's for the same product is just pennies different. Go with the man.

[Dave Waits]

I would suggest the Cylinder&Slide MARSOC kit. Gives a nice,crisp 4lb. pull drop-in. Very high quality parts.

[NWDave]

I knew I should have come here first before going to Ed Brown. Ah well, even found a stainless hammer I didn't have on the CBOB. Time of my order was 04:12, your post 04:18.

[BadOscar]

Just wanted to mention that you may want to check the adjustment of the over travel screw in the trigger if you have not already, it's a common cause of hammer follow.

[fjweems3]

Nowlin kits from Brownell's are nice.

[NWDave]

Just wanted to mention that you may want to check the adjustment of the over travel screw in the trigger if you have not already, it's a common cause of hammer follow.

Thanks, we did. Wasn't part of the problem, apparently, but we'll definitely make certain it's correct when we reassemble the hammer system. Fortunately, I have backup in a Para Ord SSP .45acp government model that I shot today in Centerfire Falling Plates. That puppy is also a tack driver, just wish I was as good as it is. Still, held my own, did well and got lots of bullets down range and that's what it's all about, right? Looking forward to bringing the CBOB on-line for some more centerfire falling plates.

[NWDave]

Parts came in Friday. Kinda a shotgun fix method. Tuesday I visit my shadetree gunsmith (someone and anyone who knows more about the finer details of the inner workings of these critters). The parts were ordered from Ed Brown since, as advertised, most parts of the CBOB are Ed Brown components. The problem was identified as the disconnector not returning to it's correct position consistently after each firing cycle. So, the new parts consist of: sear, mainspring, and disconnector. Since I believe in having backup parts, just in case, I went ahead and ordered spares as in: 18# and 20# recoil springs to help tailor the pistol to my handloads, firing pin, extractor, recoil spring plug and, sorry, couldn't help myself, a stainless hammer (cuz the original hammer is blued and just didn't look right on a otherwise stainless pistol). Since I'll have the spares, I know the original parts will not fail. I view this as cheap insurance.

More to follow after Tuesday.

[NWDave]

Tuesday's shadetree gunsmithing went quite well, if you disregard the usual fun with inserting the sear and disconnector. Learned some new "descriptive verbs", but after that, all the parts practically fell into place. The test firings went quite well and after 100 rounds down range, felt that we had a tack driver that didn't malfunction anymore, (so far). I've got another 500 rounds or so of malfunction free shooting to go before I'll feel comfortable using the Commander as a carry. Did discover that the hammer strut pin had apparently been pinned by a previous owner when I tried to replace the blued hammer with a SS hammer. Another order going in for a new hammer strut and hammer strut pin (actually, I'll get the whole package of replacement pins and springs as a cheap piece of insurance). Been a pleasure dealing with Ed Brown Company on the parts. Very quick delivery, parts look and feel very skookum.

In conclusion, a very happy camper. Now, if you'll excuse me, I gotta go put in 15 minutes of dry fire practice (try to get in at least 4 of these sessions daily). :D

[Dave Waits]

First of all, I would measure your Disconnector length. I suspect it'll be right around 1.296". If so keep it, it's perfectly good. Next, has any adjustment been made to the trigger-stop screw? An improperly adjusted screw( turned too far towards the front of the trigger or worse, removed) will allow the bow to push the disconnect too far and result in Hammer-Follow as it won't allow the sear to capture the Hammer-hooks. Next, when you reassembled after your 'Armorers' Cleaning', did you install the searspring correctly? If not, it will allow the Disconnector to stay up and not reset. This will cause Hammer-Follow. Here's how the Searspring should look if properly installed.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii180/retmsgt123/P094250007f.jpg

All in all, of the parts you replaced, the sear MAY be bad but, the gun would have to have 10s of thousands of rounds through it for a correctly fitted sear to fail.

[NWDave]

Trigger stop screw: It is correctly adjusted, however, we're replacing the trigger because it's some off-brand that is poorly fitted. There's entirely too much slop in it's travel (in all four directions, up and down and to the sides). I have 3 other 1911's which have trigger movement which is correct. The CBOB trigger movement isn't.
The reset is working correctly.

No parts are ever tossed until spec'd out. Thanks for the measurement on the disconnector.

[dw1911]

Just wanted to mention that you may want to check the adjustment of the over travel screw in the trigger if you have not already, it's a common cause of hammer follow.

It was the cause of my New CBOB's hammer follow. Works fine now. Some screws were not loctited at the factory. This comes from a Reputable source! Adjusted mine and Voila! It fixed it. It appeared at about 200 rounds. After adjustment, all is well in CBOB land!

[Sheepdog]

Just wanted to mention that you may want to check the adjustment of the over travel screw in the trigger if you have not already, it's a common cause of hammer follow.

That would have been my first guess.

[skosh69]

Holy thread resurection batman!!!

[dw1911]

Just wanted to mention that you may want to check the adjustment of the over travel screw in the trigger if you have not already, it's a common cause of hammer follow.

My CBOB had hammer follow, overtravel screw adjustment took care of it! Permanently.
Loctite is your best friend on that screw!