Doubles

Lane · #1 01-24-2012, 02:44 PM

I can post this here, because we are all family and I know I won't get flamed. Chastised, yelled at, cursed, but not flamed.

A few weeks ago I added a new fire control parts to my Mil-Spec project: Ed Brown hammer and sear, Ed Brown disconnector, EB Sear Spring, EB hammer strut, EB high ride beaver tail GS and a new EB trigger. All were installed, and I took it shooting and everything worked perfectly. I was very pleased - no problems after about 150 rounds.

Over the weekend, I spent a bit more time blending the GS, and added a new EB barrel bushing - oversized, so it had to be fitted. It's all together, with the bushing being nice and tight (takes a bushing wrench to turn it.) Didn't touch (other than assemble/disassemble) the sear/disconnector/etc.

Went to the range this morning, and followed my normal "I've been tinkering" process. Load and fire one round. Load and fire two rounds and it fires both - almost to the point of only making one sound. Cleaned pants. Load and fire - very carefully - three rounds. First round fires OK - second two double.

So, now I'm paranoid - and being very careful, try to take an engineering approach to trouble shooting. I'm gripping very tight and expecting a double every time (which shot my accuracy all to hell). But I can't consistently make the gun shoot doubles.

As I shot, I would get doubles very inconsistently - one every other mag or so (at this point, I'm loading full mags and gripping like a mad man). Never more than doubles. Also, two or three times the hammer is left half-cocked vs. full cocked.

So, here's what I'm thinking could be the cause:

1. When I reassembled my gun last night, I lubed it, but I didn't clean it first. I'm thinking that I may have some gunk that's making the sear stick and not engage the hammer.

2. I could have issues with the EB sear/hammer set up, but since it worked well before, and I didn't muck with it since, I'm not convinced it's here.

3. The barrel bushing is too tight? Long shot, but I've got the old one and it'd be easy to prove. The bushing is the only new part in the equation, so it must be on the suspect list.

What are the thoughts/rants/

ings from the group? BTW - I know that right now, this is a VERY dangerous gun, I'm I'm treating it very carefully. I never had a slam fire, but I was very careful to have a good grip and be down range every time I racked it.

Let me have it!!

Lane

NAMVET72 · #2 01-24-2012, 02:53 PM

Hello Lane,

First off all New Guns need to be stripped down and cleaned properly, then lubed well then resembled.............

Do I need to send

to your house to teach you how to do this?

AutoMag · #3 01-24-2012, 03:35 PM

Lane, check to see if the disconnector tunnel is dirty!!!

Lane · #4 01-24-2012, 03:40 PM

One of the places I plan to check. But how would the disconnecter cause doubles? Seems like if it were malfunctiong it would prevent the trigger from pulling. This is a great learning exercise as long as no one gets hurt. :-)

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AutoMag · #5 01-24-2012, 03:43 PM

If it is sticking it can cause the problem. Insert a full mag and it could go full auto!!

It is good though that you only load 1 or 2 rounds after reassembly!!

wxl · #6 01-24-2012, 04:07 PM

Go witrh Automag that it could be disconnector issue. Cannot imagine bushing causing it. Only other thing is you might have disturbed clearance when you worked the GS? or bent the sear spring? (bending the left & middle fingers on sear spring will lighten trigger pull).

Lane · #7 01-24-2012, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wxl

Go witrh Automag that it could be disconnector issue. Cannot imagine bushing causing it. Only other thing is you might have disturbed clearance when you worked the GS? or bent the sear spring? (bending the left & middle fingers on sear spring will lighten trigger pull).

Hmm. Didn't think of the sear spring. Ill give it a check. I didn't have the spring in while working on the GS, but it could be messed up. That's two votes for disconnector and quite a few Darwin nominations in my behalf.

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GoldenVolt · #8 01-24-2012, 04:33 PM

Just a guess Lane.

Over travel screw on trigger to far in not letting trigger reset?

Lane · #9 01-26-2012, 01:53 AM

First, I appreciate all of the suggestions. I did some Googling before posting, and noticed that dang near every discussion on the other boards had a ton of flames and name calling. I knew that wouldn't happen here. Agree with do it yourself or not, no one told me how dumb I am. Thank you.

Second, I think the problem might be the sear spring. I disassembled the gun tonight and cleaned it, inspecting each piece carefully. The sear spring was mentioned as a potential suspect so I compared it to the original, and Viola! The middle leaf hardly had any bend in it at all. I re-bent it to match the original and reinstalled it. I'm heading to the range tomorrow - I'm going to take the original with me. If I still have issues, I'm going to swap out the spring.

I'll report back tomorrow. Thanks to my COTEP family for the suggestions and tips.

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titanse05 · #10 01-26-2012, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoldenVolt

Just a guess Lane.

Over travel screw on trigger to far in not letting trigger reset?

I was going to suggest this.......this was the problem with my stock '08 CBOB when it started going full auto intermittently on me. Since it was my first 1911 I sent it back to DW under warranty and they fixed it. Also, while they had it in their hands they reshaped and polished the feed ramp and something else I can't remember. Of course it didn't cost me anything and I responded by buying a '09 Heritage and '10 CCO.......lol