Sounds like you should be in good shape now. Have fun at that long range course and can’t wait for the RR.


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It was. I had the best time doing the class. I learned quite a bit from it. I hope I can remember it all. The main things I do remember are



1) When in "prone" position, bring the rifle to you. Don't move your body towards the rifle. This, in re: eye relief and finding the sweet spot



2) Shoot with your dominant eye. I'm right handed and left eye dominant, so I had to learn how to do that quickly. I'm still learning. I've found, though, that doing so with the RPR isn't a huge deal as I control the bolt action. I really didn't feel so bad because my instructor is as well, and he's going blind in that Rt. eye. Thankfully, I'm not quite there just yet.



3) Don't "come off" the rifle. That is, after firing, don't lift your head but keep it on the target and as focused as possible, even when racking the bolt. An acquired skill, yes, but one worth learning.


4) Don't be scared when it goes BANG! You know when it will happen by your trigger pull.



Most of today's course was about getting zeroed at 100 yds, which he got me, reasonably quickly. But I'll have a lot of practice to do as holding that RPR is a heavy weight, even when prone It was way too high. He even recommended switching from the Harris 9- 13" Bipod to the 4-6" bipod, just to keep the rifle a little lower when prone. He also recommend that I shoot from the seated position (i.e. not prone) while I learn how to relax and not let my breathing cause my body to move and compromise my aim. Also, he recommended some different "rear bags" to support the rifle better and keep still. It was a fantastic course. He will teach the 2nd "Long Range 201" course, so I'll go back to him, where we will learn how to go beyond 100 yards, how ti "true" a firing position. how to use a Ballistics computer, etc. (he called my Mil-Dot master "old school" and strongly recommended a Kestrel, I might get there before I go to that course, but we'll see. Also, if anything changes in your formula (different ammo, different positions) you need to re-zero. Always carry a torque wrench with you to make adjustments and keep everything in proper torque.



Towards the end of the day, we also did some "aiming drills" that were designed to build confidence in being able to get on the weapon aim and fire, then get off the weapon, relax and then get right back on. We also shot at different sized targets (progressively smaller) to promote better accuracy. It was working. And, of course, in between firing live rounds, we had to "dry fire" 5 times to keep in good shape. All, very good practice.




Now, for the AR, which I got to shoot again after class. Well, good news/bad news. Good news is, my changes to the gas system seem to work to the point of being able to make the BCG move back and eject the spent brass. I can see it eject. And, since I'm shooting left eye, sometimes I can even feel it! :D Bad news is, it may not be enough gas, as I"m getting consistent failures to feed. A manual cycling often does resolve the issue, but I'm also seeing quite a bit of jamming, which I didn't see earlier. In fact, it's so jammed right now, and the only thing I can do is disassemble the upper and pull out the BCG to clear the jam. I can't even remove the mag as a result of this jam.



So, I'm now looking at a couple of things. 1) Is there enough gas not only to eject the round but, also, does the BCG go back far enough to allow a new round to feed? Is the BCG itself somehow not alligned well enough causing the feeds to miss? Could it also be a buffer/spring issue and do I have the right buffer/spring for the task at hand? Although, I'm not sure if I should go heavier or lighter. We'll see.


Anyway, that's the range report. Overall, a fantastic day on the long range. We'll fix the AR. At least I know it's getting gas, now. How much, TBD.

Excellent RR! Sounds like your instructor knows what he is talking about. Just remember to practice the fundamentals and then later the accuracy will follow. I ditched the bipods and now only shoot from bags. I find them to be more stable for me, ymmv. I believe they make brass deflectors for left handed shooters but, I’m not 100% on that. While you are learning, I would shoot low brass till you get your fundamentals dialed in. The groups will be bigger but that’s ok. That’ll save you some money. You might have to readjust your scope fit bench shooting as I’m the eye relief will be a tad different than prone.

As far as the AR….. you can try a lighter buffer and spring and see if that fixes your cycling problems. I doubt alignment of the bcg is your issue, they usually line up pretty well with the gas tube. What loads where you shooting out of it? Maybe try a “hotter” load and see what happens. Whatever you do, change only one thing at a time so you know what did the trick.

Glad your class went well.


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I was using XM855 Green Tip (62gr) as I had, always. Right now, there's a Jam I have to examine forensically. And we'll see what caused it. I'll have to split the upper and lower and remove the bcg that way to clear it, so I will analyze.


Thanks. I'll keep y'all posted.

Interesting. Definitely let me know what you find as I’m curious why you are having so much trouble with it. I’ve built 5-6 of these things without a single hiccup, guess I’ve been lucky. [emoji2375]


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More like "experienced." How well was your 1st one done as opposed to your 5-6th one?


This one was my 1st. And I probably wasn't paying the appropriate attention to detail that one should. You can't cut corners or anything like that. You have to do everything right. I learned a lot, acquired a lot of equipment/tools I didn't have, and I'll make sure I do it right for the 2nd attempt.


I'll let you know what happens.

To be honest, my first one I used a complete upper and technically only built the lower. [emoji2375]


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I might actually end up doing that.



I cleared the jam very carefully. As it turned out, there was a live round "in battery" but not fired. Another was right behind it with the tip jamming against the "in battery" round. I had to separate the upper & lower, but even that wouldn't clear the jam. I was, finally able to remove the mag (one round was jamed betwen the mag and upper. I had to push back the BCG, manually with pliers (which it did) and use a pair of needle nose pliers to clear the live round jammed up against the "in battery" round. Once I did that, the BCG itself also went into battery. I pulled the charging handle again and the "in battery" round did eject, clearing the rifle.

Thinking it might have something to do with the tension the rounds are in when loaded into my PMAG-30s, I took an empty one and loaded 10 5.56 snap caps into it. I charged one, which went into battery. Now, the charging handle is now jammed. It won't pull back. I got the PMAG out, but I can't pull the charging handle at all to eject the snap cap.

At this point, I'm considering replacing either the BCG and/or the entire upper. Something is JDFR with it. I don't think it's the buffer/spring assembly. I think it might very well be that the BCG is binding. But what to do about it. I also need to ensure that there isn't an issue with the barrel itself not allowing the spent round to eject. I think they are ejecting properly (the jammed round and the "in battery" round certainly did). But I think something is causing the BCG to bind. Also, I've noticed the mag release on the lower is not working well either. It doesn't lock back when the last round is ejected. But that's a different issue for another time.

I also checked for a gas leak when I had the upper/lower separated. I think the gas system is OK as the key goes right into the tube when in battery. I think my gas issues are resolved now. I just have to move on to the upper/BCG issues.

See if there are any burrs on the upper where the bcg and charging handle rides in. Also, did you lube the charging handle “channel”.


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OK, I'll check it. What type of lube? Std. Hoppes 9 Oil, or maybe some "gun grease" or something?

I use some Wilson Combat lube that Riverpig gave me a year or so ago but, any good lube will work.


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Update: 2nd round of diagnosis completed. I note the following:


1) The "elevated barrel" test (where I hand insert a round into the barrel and then turn it vertical) was successful with a live round, but only a live round. It failed with one of my snap caps (had to self extract with needle nose pliers) as well as an empty shell. Neither of those had the same weight as a full live round (obviously). In fact, because of that, I believe these snap caps I have (plastic) are worthless because they don't simulate the full weight of a live 5.56 62 gr round.


2) The current jam cleared once I pulled the charging handle with some extra force, and the plastic snap cap ejected. But I'm thinking there may be some damage to the upper now. See this picture and see the aluminum sheer on the lower inside of the upper tract. This pic, of course, is with the BCG and charging handle removed. Note the gas tube is in place and is covered by the key when in full battery.



https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...5976280d8b6829


3) I did some tests with the BCG. I maunally loaded both my snap cap and the empty shell into the barelhead and attempted to close the BCG manually and get it into battery. It would not lock all the way into battery when I tried this.


The following is the BCG in full "unlocked" position (ie. bolt head fully extended).


https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...5976280d8b6829


When I pushed the BCG in after hand loading any/all items, it would only go halfway into battery. Like so: (Now it's on its side, now).




https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...5976280d8b6829


After giving everything a light coat of oil and replacing the parts, I noticed that when I pushed the BCG in with nothing loaded, it went into full battery, as follows (this pic is with BCG and charging handle properly installed into the upper):


https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...5976280d8b6829


I then re-assembled the upper to the lower and tested the charging handle, etc, etc. with no rounds. It also went into full battery (I could observe the BCG through the ejection port). Thinking that the problems may be with the snap cap and empty shell, I then went ahead and loaded one live round from the mag. I pulled the charging handle, and it responded correctly, going into full battery. I then removed the mag, pulled the charging handle, and the loaded live round did eject properly.


Conclusions:


1) Maybe it did need a small coat of oil.
2) I need to buy new snap caps that actually have the full weight of a live 62gr round.
3) If I still have issues after the next round of test firing, then I'll have to look at the buffer and spring next, or replacing the entire upper/BCG asssembly.


More to follow. Thanks.

Looks like you are in the right track to figuring it out bud, staying tuned for updates.


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Next round of test firings coming either this week or next week. I will also be testing the RPR with my new Armegeddon "Schmedium" sized squeeze bag. I would say that the pic below is about 2/3s of its actual size.



https://op2.0ps.us/full-size/opplane...g0748-main.jpg


Hopefully, it will work much better and keep me a lot steadier than the smaller bags with which I was working.



I will stay at 100 yards for a while, until I master it. Then I will take the Long Range 201 course and get beyond 100 yards.



I'll keep you posted.

Looks like a nice bag.


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It is. And it worked like a charm as I was re-zeroing this morning at 100 yards. All but one shot in the black. Yay!



But that's not all. My friend got me out to 250yds at least twice this morning, without any dope and a minor elevation adjustment. I am, though, going a bit left, although my elevation is spot on, per what he said. I'll be working on it.


But that's not the biggest news.




The AR is now WORKING! YAAAAAAHOOOOOOOO! It cycles completely! It ran through a full mag without any problems. It seemed that all I needed was a little oil on it. I'll be sure to keep it cleaned and oiled now. Now, I can go ahead a zero it to 100 yards. I'm told by my friend that it's way left, so as soon as I get it on paper, I'll start to zero it in. I"m using a SFP scope for it so, hopefully, I hope that doesn't cause any issues.


The only thing left to fix on it is the bolt catch release button. I'm told that it's possible that I need to shave a little metal off so that it can catch properly. Apparently, the Anderson Lower spec is a little off. I'll get some pics up here so you can look at it.






But that aside, the build is in full op! Confidence totally built, at this point!


Thanks to all of you!

That’s great news on the AR! I guess I should of mentioned that they like to run wet. Remind me of the bolt lock issue? You shouldn’t have to shave anything to make it catch…?….

I’m glad the bag worked out for you. I ditched the bipod a year ago and never looked back. I find that the bag is more consistent for me to get back on target also for follow up shots.

I like to use the StelokPro app on my phone to get my scope adjustments at different distances. So far it’s been spot on. If it tells me I need 0.5 mils [emoji3595] at 200 yds from my zero, it centers that shot in the 200 yds target every time (as long as I do my part). You can get the free version but the Pro gives you more flexibility and it’s a one time purchase (cheap too).

If you are zero’d at 100 and then shoot at 200 and you are hitting far left (without wind of course) then, something is off. You might have to true your scope reticle your your bore.


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Here are the pics I've taken:


The first is of the Bolt Catch when not extended (i.e. charging handle not pulled back.

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...8-png.7730572/


You can see that it doesn't fully cover the impression hole in the lower. I think that's what Mike was referring to when he said it's not properly oriented over the lower hole. Either that, or the spring is really weak.

Here's another view:

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...8-png.7730575/


And another from the opposite side (sorry a bit out of focus):

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...8-png.7730582/


If I open the lower and look at the inside, I see this:

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...8-png.7730584/


And when I try to pull back the catch, I get this:

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...8-png.7730586/


And, finally, from the other side:

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...8-png.7730589/





I still have my bipod I may get the device that lets me tighten it more, because it needs to be, but I'll keep the bag on the rear.



I'll look into it. Does it have a Kestrel hook up?



It's zeroed at 100, but not yet "true." We'll be working on that during the Long Range 201 course. I'll take that after a bit of practice at 100 yds. I need to make my groups a lot tighter.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

One other Update: I just did another test with an empty PMAG-30. This, having had comments about it being the "follower" of an empty mag that causes the Bolt catch to engage. I put in an empty mag and pulled the charging handle. Lo and behold, it locked into place! But the slightest little jolt of the rifle would cause it to unlock and the handle/BCG to go back into battery. I can pull the charging handle back and it will lock into place, as long as I don't jolt the rifle. I can even drop the mag and will stay locked back. But not for long, as the slightest little bump will cause it to close. I guess the reason why it wouldn't lock back after firing the last round in the mag is that ejection jolt. When it is locked back, I can push the bolt catch release and it will close, normally.

So, that helps, a little in terms of diagnosis and repair. Either the spring is not enough to keep the bolt catch extended out when the handle is back, or something is off that it can't get a full catch... only a partial one.

Thoughts? Thanks!

Building Confidence
 

Here are three of mine….

1. Phase5 extended bolt release

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...34f2c07e4c.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...96c31c7017.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...348733ddd1.jpg


2. Strike Industries extended bolt release

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1a48e5e8eb.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0115409eb5.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ea96b25a89.jpg


3. Standard parts kit bolt release

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2af60792c6.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3aa16cf140.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8c2c1a047c.jpg

All of these hold the bolt back with and without the mag in place and a couple of smacks to the lower.


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Mine don’t look much different than yours on the lower access spacing/gap. So I’m thinking it’s the spring. Are you sure you used the correct spring when you installed the lower parts?


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Yes, the StrelokPro app has a Kestrel connection/ compatibility.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5cd84eb53b.jpg


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No, I'm not sure of that. I've ordered a couple of Bolt catch replacement kits that have the appropriate spring, detent, and roll pin. As soon as I get those in, I'll pull out the old assembly, hopefully without damaging the lower. Ill have to lube it up with penetrating oil to loosen the old pin. Then I an pull it out.

That’s a good start.


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What's your recommendation on removing the old bolt catch roll pin? I'll probably start with some penetrating oil and light taps. I just have to be real careful I don't damage the lower.

Tape up the lower anywhere the punch or hammer may come in contact with. Use the proper sized punch and lightly tap it out from the muzzle towards the Butt end. Take your time and use oil. Should come out somewhat easily.


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Update: The replacement Bolt Catch groups arrived today and took less than 1hr to install (including removing the old parts).


These are some pics below of both the original group and the replacement group. The original is on the right. First the spring and detent.

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...1-png.7736980/


You'll notice the spring on the right (original) is shorter and a little thicker, but it matches the fit of the detent/plunger on the right. The spring and detent/plunger on the left also match each other and the spring is softer. So, I conclude that the original spring and detent/plunger were the correct ones for the bolt catch group installed. But was the group itself correct?

Now, the view of the bolt catches, themselves. Original on the right.


https://www.snipershide.com/shooting...s-png.7736981/


You'll notice the big difference in design. I think this was the primary issue causing the catch not to lock. The spring didn't help either, but I think this was the real culprit.

I completely replaced the original parts with the replacements, all except the roll pin which fit back in properly.

The bolt catch works flawlessly, now. I tested it with some new snap caps that actually had the same weight as live rounds. They ejected properly and the last ejection resulted in the catch locking strongly. I dropped the empty mag and then gave the weapon a light bang, and it held. Only when I pressed the release did it close and go into battery. I will do a final test at JTAC this month at my next visit to confirm it will hold after firing/ejecting the last round in the mag.

Thanks to all for your help. The AR is fully functional now. Confidence totally built.



Sometime early next year, I will begin the 2nd build. Hopefully, to go a lot smoother.

And yet another Update. Had an excellent day on the precision range. Got a really nice grouping on the RPR. I just have to adjust a smidge more and I'll be right on target. But I also have to learn to control my own movements as well because no matter how accurate you are with your rifle, you also must have accuracy in how you hold it. And I'm complicating things by learning how to shoot left handed (I'm right handed, left eye dominant).


The AR is working perfectly and the bolt catch held after I emptied a mag. It is 100% now. I just have to keep it cleaned and oiled. And I have to make some minor adjustments in re: zeroing it in. At least, I'm on paper and very close to zero. I think one more range session should do it.



Thanks all. I'll most likely start the 2nd AR build in early 2022.

Quick Question: What are you all recommending for "Frangible 5.56?" If I'm going to put either this build or "Build #2 (comming in 2022) into the HD plan, I'm not going to be able to use "Green Tip" for that :eek::D So, I'm looking for some good Frangible 5.56 that will get the job done without overdoing it.


Any recommendations?

Hey bud, sorry for being out of touch lately.

I’m glad you were able to get the AR to 100%. Now that you have experience building and troubleshooting this platform, your second one will be as easy as pig on his first date.

I can’t imagine learning to shoot precision shots with my off hand, but you have to do what you have to do. Work on your fundamentals before every shot at first and you will eventually just do it properly unconsciously. Remember, don’t death grip the grip. A light touch with focus on the trigger finger is all that’s needed. Your shoulder and either bag or bipod will hold the gun steady.

I don’t know anything about frangible ammo, sorry.


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What do you mean by "HD plan?" Home Defense? If so, you don't need frangible. Get good hollow point ammo and stay with 55 grain.
We did some extensive testing on .223/5.56 ammo when we switched from the MP5's to M4's. Everyone was afraid of over penetration.
What we learned, and it's going to sound counter intuitive, is the 9mm was over penetrating, more than the 5.56.
The heavier 9mm was plowing through 2 X 4's, sheet rock and many obstacles, while the lighter .223 was more susceptible to deflection as well as slowing down and being stopped by solid obstacles.
If you were to fire a 9 vs 5.56 outside then yes, the 5.56 would go farther. What we discovered, and this was supported by the sate AG's office as well, within most interiors the 9mm was penetrating more than the .223/5.56.


Now me personally, I have handguns for home defense, but my go to is a pistol caliber carbine, a HK USC. It's loaded with Federal 230 grain Hydroshoks.

My 5.56 load is 55 grain soft points made for varmint hunting. No worries about overpenetration with those.
But that's for exterior home defense, not for indoor home defense. For indoors I have a 45 ACP Hi-Point carbine loaded with 230 grain XTPs.

Jake and I shot one round of 5.56 at our backyard backstop. It went through a 4x4 post, a pine tree, and took off through the scrub to parts unknown. And it was a hollowpoint. Just sayin...

Never said they wouldn't penetrate. Just the odds were better than a 9 coming out of carbine.
Also, I forgot to add, I don't believe frangible was designed for self defense. More for using in indoor ranges and/or on steel. Also, lead free.

Hollowpoints need soft tissue to expand. I had a Sierra 165 gr hollow point boat tail go through a tree and kill a deer on the other side of the tree. The deer was moving and stepped behind the tree trunk just as I pulled the trigger. I centered the tree trunk and the bullet went straight through and then flew true another 20 yards before hitting the deer. I found the bullet hole. A soft point would have expanded inside the tree and disintegrated.

I do currently use 9mm Hydrashok JHPs for my EDC pistol (P365). And they will still stay in the HD plan. I'm just wanting to add one of my AR's to that plan. I live in a small 1130 Sq ft. 3bd/2br with block & stucco outer walls. And my neighbors' houses are less than 20ft. away from mine. I'm a lot worried about penetration and would prefer frangible for 5.56.



I'll check them out but I think, in the end, I'll go with some kind of frangible 5.56.


Thanks all!

Bad Omen.... :D :mob:



It's more my left eye than the hand. I'm right handed, but left eye dominant. I'm actually zeroed-in at 100 yards, even using the left eye. But I have much more practice to do. I think more so with controlling the rear bag sufficiently so that the scope lands where it needs to. Once I get that down, I'll pop for the 2nd Long Range course at JTAC.



No sweat. But thanks anyway. I'm just going to have to remember everything I've learned. I'll probably start the 2nd build in early February.

Btw..I caught a 7 day Facebook ban over your FedEx porch post you are a BAD influence on me, Island Minion

Sorry. funny funny

You haven't been banned permanently yet???