No need to worry about the gas tube and key aligning properly when you put it together. The gas tube just needs to be straight in line with the barrel and it’ll be guided by the upper for proper alignment.


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I’ll take some pics for you when I put my pistol upper together this week.


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Umm..Lisa said you're sweeping and mopping..

OK Thanks. I gather the gas tube enters that little "cross" at the top of the upper and that will align it.


Anyway, I now have the lowers, FCG and the Andersen lower matches its upper perfectly. I gather the buffer spring detent is part of the LPK, correct? Otherwise, I'll have to buy that as well. I'm looking at my YT videos on assembling my uppers/lowers to see if there are any other parts I need. I'll get them in mid-October.



I'm having a little trouble finding the barrel nut (the one in the picture you listed) that goes with the MAGPUL M-Lok HG. I'll call MAGPUL to see if it's included with the HG. Now, does that barrel nut include the delta ring or is that another separate purchase?

EDIT: MAGPUL does *not* include the barrel nut with it's HGs, as verified by a MAGPUL rep. He also said they don't sell them separately, either. He did indicate that any std. barrel nut and delta group (springs & retainer clip, etc.) will work.


So I'll order those separately.

Building Confidence
 

The detent comes in the LPK. You should be able to buy the barrel nut with the delta ring assembled from any of those sites I gave you. Parts are a bit difficult to source right now but, should pop up here and there.

PS: Yes, the gas tube goes into the upper through the cross opening and that’s what aligns it to the bcg.


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Go play in traffic.


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https://i.imgur.com/kJkth3Yl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RCOGxuIl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YellZGGl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SAJwVfIl.jpg

If you don’t care about color I have a FDE mid length MOE handguard if you want it. I also have the correct circular handguard retainer you would need. The triangular one won’t fit MOE.

If your budget is tight skip the lower vice block. Also I use vice grips to do the majority of the roll pins. Squeeze them instead of hammering.

https://youtu.be/q11mziNfzmc

We may do business on the retainer. I already purchased the triangular retainer. If that doesn't work, then I'll try yours..... But I definitely want the "black and scary" HG :D

I had originally ordered a FDE Carbine size from PSA. I was all set up to do my first build and went to slap all the parts together and found out they sent me the mid length size. Called them up and they shipped the carbine FDE to me and said it wasn’t cost effective for me to ship the mid back and just keep it. All my other builds have been evil black rifles so it sits in my spare parts box, waiting for a home!

PM me your address, I’ll send the retainer. Depending on how your barrel is set up it could go on early in the assembly so by the time you realize you need it, you won’t be able to get any assembly done and it will set you back a whole week. Better to have it and not need it, than a week of frustration.

Update: The gas block arrived today.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...727181f70b.jpg
Good news - It fits well over the barrel. And having measured it, I will definitely need the mid-length HG.


Bad - News - The shipment arrived with missing parts (allen key and the two set screws were missing). And, apparently, Optics Planet is not taking phone calls right now. Customer returns are also delayed.

Better news - After speaking with both Optics Planet and the manufacturer GunTech, Both have indicated they are willing to supply the missing allen key and set screws. Could be a week to receive them.


So, again, we'll see what happens.

I’m glad you’re making progress on the build.

If the gas block is steel, then it should work well. If it’s aluminum, then don’t expect it to last long term.

That, and there is this Little crow Gunsmith Roll pin pusher that seems to do very well.


Here is a youtube video on it (I wish I recall how to embed them in these posts like you did).

Great tool, might just have to add it to my box. Thanks.


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I had to order some peel washers to make sure the brake is clocked properly. So, my upper build is on hold till I receive those washers.


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Is that something I need to worry about?

Not really. It all depends on the flash hider or brake. Usually the crush washer that comes with it is sufficient enough to align the muzzle device correctly. If you want to just buy some peel washers to be on the safe side, I only paid like $7 for a pack of 5.


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I agree .... that does look to work quite well. http://www.cotep.org/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

Update: All remaining parts for the build (and most of the tools) now ordered from Primary Arms. This, including the Vice blocks, barrel wrench, and the remaining items. The vice itself and the torque wrenches were ordered from Amazon. Also an update on the gas block. Optics Planet agreed to ship a replacement item without me returning the item that had missing parts. Nice folks!


And in a real twist of Irony, I discovered that Optics Planet HQ building is 3150 Commercial Avenue in Northbrook, Ill. I actually used to work just down the street from them at 4000 Commercial Ave, although the company I worked for is not there any longer. It was 1981 - 1983, so......


Anyway, we're moving right along. I think I have roll pin punches already, but I'll have to check my kit. If not, I'll get them, along with the hammers, and that roll pin pushing tool (see above).


I'll keep y'all posted when I start the build. But I think I may need to look at a couple of "Insurance pieces" (ie. replace my 1911 and my .22) before the election just in case Biden does win.... But we'll see.


Thanks all.

Awesome! Can’t wait to see your build come together!


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Update: All purchased items received, as of this afternoon. I received the 2nd gas block from Optics Planet. It was not exactly the same as the first one (ie. did not have a lower rail) but, at least it came with set screws and it fit the barrel. I'll find my own allen key, I guess... :D


I should be able to start assembly, shortly. I'll mount the new vice onto some particle board and then test that out. I have all the vice blocks, etc. I will also need to resolve the "handguard cap" issue. Now that I have the MOE handguard, I'll check it against the triangular cap. But I think, honestly, it is not going to fit, and I will need the circular one. But I see several different sizes. Brownell's has two circular caps (one .755" and another that's .625"). There's also a triangular cap that's .750" (which I think mine is). I'll do some more measurements, but if anyone can tell me which is right for my handguard, I'd appreciate it.



We're definitely on our way. Thanks!


2nd Update: The triangular handguard cap does seem to snap in place and fits over the front of the MOE handguard. It is not a loose fit, either. Its pretty tight. Although, there is a slight bit of space at the top of the handguard that is not covered by the cap. It's on both sides of the triangular point where the gas tube hole is. If that's not an issue, then problem solved for that.


So, as soon as I anchor my vice, then I can get started. Where I think I'll need help next is in how to lubricate all the parts that need lubing when being assembled. I'll watch my Youtube videos but whatever points you have will be appreciated.






:flagwave:

Woohoo! Awesome. You will enjoy this I’m sure and shooting what your two hands built will be satisfying. Then you will want to do it again.

I use never-seize on the threads of the upper for the barrel nut as well as a light coat on the barrel hood where it goes into the upper. That’s all the “lube” I use for assembly. Before I shoot it, I will liberally oil the BCG and a little on the charging handle where the bolt slides. That’s about it.


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I believe molly grease is what is recommended for the barrel nut. Other manufacturers have said anti-seize which is available at auto parts store. You don’t need much. A small tube would probably work for a dozen builds. That is the only spot that requires lube. Maybe some oil on the trigger pins, also I put a drop of heavy oil in the moving parts of the trigger group.

Lube points from AR15.com
https://i.imgur.com/kuGNHm9l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0xdNGmkl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JhjDUsEl.jpg

Day 1 of assembly complete. I focused on the lower. Completed the Mag and bolt catches (although that bolt catch was a "B-Word"). And this, without my roll pin pusher (I expect that on Tues - Wed.). I did get it installed, but it seems there's isn't a lot of play in that bolt catch. There is some, but I don't know how much I should have and how far the catch should extend.


I also completed the two take-down pins and the buffer tube (with spring and buffer). I would have done the "selector switch" but I bought an "ambidextrous" selector switch and that requires dissembling it with an allen key. Lo and behold, I can't find my Allen Keys (#*@+#*$_@#). I should get them by tuesday 10/20. When I get them (and I get my roll pin pusher, I'll continue work. It's actually going pretty fast. I just hope it's right. Maybe I'll do the FCG and trigger guard while I wait for the other tools.



One thing I have learned... Make absolutely sure you can contain any springs/detents from springing away from you if at all possible. THankfully, I had some spares since I also got the Geiselle takedown pin set. They actually went in pretty easily.


Anyway, Time for some dinner. Tomorrow is another day.

EXACTLY !! http://www.cotep.org/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

And thus, I have a 2nd lower just waiting!

Day 2 of assembly complete. Lower is completely done. Although with one issue. The rear roll pin on the trigger guard won't seat fully. And I don't want to pound it too much because I fear it may damage the lower. I'm wondering if I can get away with, perhaps, just dremeling it down, or should I pull it out properly and insert a new one. Also, I decided not to wait for my Allen keys and installed the single sided safety lever. Maybe I'll switch it out later.



Started on the upper, but only the barrel is installed. I tried to do the delta ring, but I truly need a set of snap ring pliers for that. They should arrive Wed. I'll go back to the build then. BTW, I checked the gas tube and it seem to fit and align perfectly with the upper port andthe port on the barrel, so we'll see, once I get the block put on.



But a quick break from assembly over the next 2-3 days. On Tues, 10/20, I get to pick up my new toy from my FFL! IT's a RIA 1911 FS .45ACP!


https://www.cheaperthandirt.com/dw/i...?sw=800&sh=800
Finally, my 1911 replaced! I bought this as an "insurance piece..." that is to have at least something for that ammo in my inventory should Biden win the election and prices go haywire thereafter. I'll wait on the other items until after the election. Hopefully, Trump will win and the prices will fall (and inventory released)... for a while, anyway. Then they'll rise again once people start gearing up again for the BLM/ANTIFA onslaught coming.


Anyway, I'll catch up with ya. Thanks.

Excellent! You are doing well Sir, keep at it! As far as the roll pin not seating all the way.... you probably rolled the edges with the punch a little and it won’t seat properly. I would remove it and install a new one (only because it would bug me). Put a very light coat of oil on the new pin and it should go in much easier.

Nice 1911 purchase, I’ve been wanting to get another one but have decided to hold off till after the elections. When Trump wins, I predict there will be a ton of never used guns for sale.


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Congrats on the RIA....they are good guns. I have one with a full rail and its heavy as heck but shoots great.

Same here....wanting a 10mm but market is lousy right now. Waiting till 2021 myself when all calms down.

A 10mm longslide is on my "When I get rich" bucket list, LOL.

that is what I am looking for. I had the chance at a SA one at my LGS during the craziness. It was a mere $2900....just about 1K over priced. Dumb people paid up for it too......

This is the exact reason I said to squeeze, not pound. Pounding will break things. The roll pin, the lower, the hammer, mar the surface, all those are possibilities. I seriously have no idea why anyone would continue to do or advise pounding on expensive and hard to fix or replace items. Same thing with your bolt catch.

Watch the video I posted. You could have saved yourself time, frustration and money.

I agree. I was rushing things. I had placed the order for the "roll pin pusher" tool I mention in my reply to you, but it won't arrive (now) until Thrs. I have replacement pins on order, and as long as I'm careful, I can pull the errant pin out wtihout any damage to the lower or the trigger guard. But I will wait for the proper tools. Unfortunately, the wrench you provided in your videos was like $69.00 on Amazon. Couldn't afford it. The roll pin pusher is only $39.00. Anyway, lesson learned. I'll try it again once the tool arrives.

Actually I have only used vise grips. Squeeze, unlock, turn tighter and squeeze again. I wrap blue tape around the jaws and use needle nose players to hold the roll pin in alignment. Then a short squeeze to get it started. You also have a roll pin in the upper for the forward assist. Squeeze there as well.

I punch my pins in with no problems but, squeezing them is a lot safer (and probably easier with the right tools).


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Nothing may happen 99 times out of 100 but that one time can be a real pain! Break an ear off a lower and you are stuck. The repair would probably be more expensive than a new lower and because it is serialized and requires an FFL transfer you can’t just swap it out.

My first few builds I would sandwich the stripped upper between a couple of wood blocks and torque the barrel nuts down. Then on one I was tightening and trying to get the tube aligned when I hear a “tink” I cracked the lower part of the upper at the thin spot where the ejector port is. Was probably just unsupported by just a bit and the whole stripped upper is scrap. $90 mistake at the time. I still have it to remind myself to go slow and not do any unnecessary banging or pressure if not needed.

Yep, mistakes can be pricey but, we learn from mistakes. (Ours or others). I use a block designed to hold the upper with and insert to prevent it from collapsing in the vice. It still has some play that I don’t care for so, I just take my time with the barrel nut alignment (aiming for the lowest torque possible). When inserting the trigger guard pin I put the guard in place to prevent flex on the ears as well as support the lower ear on a block (when later down). Then, lightly tap in the pin till it’s flush. Patience is key.


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You got me motivated, I just ordered 2 'naked' lowers yesterday. http://www.cotep.org/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

Congrats.


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Me or C aleb? :D


Anyway, I have a 2nd lower as well. But I will wait for after the election to build that one out. As long as Pres. Trump is re-elected, I can wait a little while, and recover other of my inventory (shotties, my P226, etc., my Shield), and maybe look at a P365 as well. If Biden is elected, I'll have to scramble for the parts for that lower immediately, especially since I doubt I'll get my hands on any other replacement items... :mad: Still waiting on some spare parts that were delayed 1 day until tomorrow. Then I can resume the build.