Automated sniping is one of the infuriating things about bidding on eBay. You'll have a winning bid right up until the moment the bidding ends and then suddenly lose it by a small margin without any chance to put in a competing bid.:mad:

Precisely why they implemented this "15 minute Rule...." on Gunbroker.

Cool beans! GB has some good deals if you are lucky. Congratulations on the 226.


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I sell a few things on Ebay but rarely buy anything there. Its a sh%t show. Even selling is tough, you have to overcharge 15% to cover all the fees so its really difficult. I am about done with ebay for everything.

Just took delivery on it this morning. NIB in total pristine condition, well oiled and everything looks great! With the exception of Paypal, this was a flawless transaction! Looking forward to doing my JM Pro next month.

I learned quickly that eBay was not worth the trouble.... Honestly, I sold more things better on Craig's List.



Gunbroker, however, seems to be quite reputable, as long as you vet the merchants.

Yeah eBay sucks.


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Congrats !!

Did you receive any 'From: Me - To: Me' Christmas presents :D to help move your build along?

No, I didn't, and if it were "me to me..." I wouldn't trust it. :D


I fear my "confidence" might not be as "built" as I need it to be to finish the build.Getting the gas tube aligned with the block via roll pin and then that assembly directly over the barrel port is an obstacle, even with the "spaghetti" pieces helping me. How have all of you done that and tested it, effectively? Once that's done, then it's a matter of fitting the HG on and ensuring the Gas tube meets the upper receiver port properly. I guess I'll only know how successful that may be by test firing. And, I'll need a place for that as I'm not able to discharge a weapon around where I live (too dense a population). I wish there were a way to "simulate" the gas action of firing a round.... maybe by putting a high pressure hose inside the barrel and then blasting air through it to simulate an action cycle, without actually expelling a projectile. The person who could invent that would certainly make a million!



To be honest, I wonder why the "roll pin" was invented in the first place. What do they do that another fastener could not? Ah well... I guess if you attempted "nuts & bolts" in place of them, one or both could catch on something and cause you problems. There has to be a better way, though.


Anyway, I'm still resolved to get it done. But I might need a little advice per the above. Also, I have been distracted a little by needing to "secure" (not "hoard" mind you, but "secure" .... :D) what parts, etc. I need for the other three lowers I have (barrels, uppers, parts kits, trigger groups, etc.) before Kamala gets to decree. I have to wonder if that's more of a priority then replacing my lost inventory items. Although I am going for the JM Pro, next. Maybe a couple of others if we get that "stimulus," shortly. If they're going to give it to me, anyway, I may as well put it to good use.



I'll keep all posted. Whatever help you can offer in re: gas tube/block placement, etc. would be greatly appreciated.


Regards,
Arnold.


PS. My P320 Sub compact comes back from the Sig Sauer factory in NH, tomorrow, after it's free "voluntary upgrade." So that will be a relief!

I will need pictures of what you are working with.

Generally you just insert the tube into the block, tap the roll pin in place and then set the block on the barrel lined up with the gas port. Torque the barrel nut to where the tube freely runs past it into the upper assembly.


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That's the hard part, actually... ensuring you have all the holes aligned and that the roll pin goes through all 4 of them. I'm finding thst the most difficult part of that process,,, without, of course damaging the roll pin. I will try it with a roll pin holder and a small bit of lube and we'll see.

Building Confidence
 

You can align the holes using a guide (for lack of a better word) and then tap the pin in a little at a time with a small hammer/mallet. Do you have a gunsmiths block? Those are handy to have around. I think a little gun oil can help but also might make it slippery to handle.

PS: Make sure the tube is oriented correctly before you pin it. The block sits lower than the upper receiver , therefor the tube steps down into the block from the receiver.


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I see C aleb is taking good care of you on your build when needed, he certainly helped me out when I needed 'pointed in the right direction', and still does on occasion. http://www.cotep.org/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

What's involved in the above mentioned "voluntary upgrade?"

OK, so find a metal rod (diameter of a paper clip over which the roll pin can fit). Put the roll pin over the rod, insert the rod and align, and then gently advance the roll pin.



The tube is definitely aligned to the upper. I will make sure I use the gun grease sparingly. And I'll use my roll pin holders to advance it to the point where I can start to tap it in.



Thanks much!

I believe that's just their politically correct way of calling it a "recall." There were concerns about the original units, potentially, AD'ing when dropped. That is, supposedly what they fixed.... er... uh... "upgraded." :D



More about this program at the Sig Sauer Website (P320 Voluntary Upgrade).

The P320 arrived back in excellent condition. It looks like they installed a brand new lower and just swapped out the serial # plate. The slide lock is ambidextrous now. And there appears to be a lip/protrusion that surrounds the slide lock(s) on both sides. I guess it's to prevent the slide lock from "engaging" the slide into battery if the weapon is dropped (and, potentially, the gun AD'ing).



It came back its original box wit the standard Sig Sauer stickees, a chamber plug, an operator's manual (I had that already), but an additional curious flyer. One from the ATF.... a "Youth Handgun Safety Act" notice.....




Hmmmmm.... C'Mon Sig Sauer.... Y'all ain't "courtin' with the Devil, now are ya???" :D

That should work, you just need it to help with alignment. Once you have the pin through one side, the other side will be aligned properly.

I’ve been wanting a 320 to just play around with and customize. Just never pulled the trigger on one.


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That should work, you just need it to help with alignment. Once you have the pin through one side, the other side will be aligned properly.

I’ve been wanting a 320 to just play around with and customize. Just never pulled the trigger on one.


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That explains it all ! http://www.cotep.org/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

How did the above work out for you?

Oddly enough, quite well. The tube and block are now aligned, with the roll pin flush and in place. And I was able to blow on the tube and feel the air jet with my finger inside the block. so I know those holes are aligned. The way I did it was to align the tube into block by the "paper clip" method as described. Then, I taped the tube with Scotch tape directly onto the block, which did anchor it enough for me to keep the tube aligned and get the roll pin started. A little "Liquid Wrench" in the right place after I had the pin 2/3rds in place and, after a few minutes, the roll pin went right in.



The bad news is, when I was doing this, I forgot that the BCG is not fixed inside the upper and both it and the charging handle came right out! :( I figured out that I have to have the bolt in the locked position (bolt extended) in order ro re-insert it, and I was able to do that. It clicked right into place. But getting the charging handle to fit in again, has been an issue. I had bought the upper "assembled" so I never did go through putting the BCG and charging handle together into the upper. I guess I'll have to review my videos on how to do that, unless you good folks have some suggestions. :D


That said, I want to go over something I mentioned in my last update but got no bites on it. :D Has anyone found a good method of testing the action without having to fire a round? Once fully assembled, I was thinking of attempting to "pressure test" the action by blowing a pressurized shot of compressed air down the barrel to simulate a firing (since I can't test fire with actual firing, where I live). I would use some empty brass, so it could be extracted without difficulty. Then let a dummy snap cap be the next round to go into battery.



I want to get at least 2-3 "action tests" in before I go test fire it with live rounds on a range. The issue is going to find a module I can use to fit into the barrel to give it the "test shot of air." I also need to know what PSI would be optimal. Does anyone know what the standard PSI rating is for an xm855 green tip fired from the barrel?



Thanks all! I'll keep you posted.


:lama:

On really stubborn pin alignment problems, you can use a tapered drift punch from the side you will be inserting the pin from to get the holes close, then use a pin punch or a solid pin close to the hole diameter (with the end chamfered) from the other side to get the holes lined up, then use it as a slave pin and push it out with the pin.

If you can't find a solid pin or pin punch with the right diameter you can probably find a drill bit that is very close and use that as the slave pin. I have a complete set of drill bits incremented in 1/64" that I have used as slave pins on some VERY difficult pin alignment problems.

I just manually cycle the action an feel for any hang ups or sluggish movements. If that feels good, I load up one round and fire it. If the action locks back, I’ll load five in the mag and fire. If that goes well, load up the mag or two and go at it. I don’t do barre break-in on non match grade barrels/rifles.


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Oh... inserting the CH and BCG is easier done upside down. You should notice two little ears on the charging handle that fit in a slot in the upper receiver towards the back. Insert the charging handle and push it in about a quarter of an inch then extend the bolt carrier group and insert together, push all the way until it clicks.


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So the Youtube video showed me. All done in a jiffy.


Now, to mount the gas tube/block assembly on to the barrel and align it. Time for that "spaghetti" to work its magic.... :D

On the road again .... :D

Cool beans.


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Sorry it's taking so long, but there is light at the end of the tunnel... and it's not a train coming in the other direction!


I expect the next build will go a lot smoother/quicker from what I've learned on this one.

The first one is always the harder one.


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Quick Update: Mossberg 940 JM Pro acquired this morning, thanks to the Stimulus update! :D Check one more off my "recover list."


https://external-content.duckduckgo....900&f=1&nofb=1

^^ Very nice, congrats !! Where did you find/purchase it?

GunBroker. There were several that were cheaper (under $1K) but on auction, and there were a lot of bids on them. In the end, I found one that did meet my "Buy Now" threshold so I didn't have to bid on it. The problem being, the closing time would have been while I was at work, conducting classes. I would not be able to watch the auction minute by minute and be ready to counter any sniping. And, of course, I'd not be able to do my own "sniping" at 16 minutes prior to close... :D


I'll bid on something if the "Buy Now" price is way outrageous and/or the auction close is during a time I'm not teaching.

congrats. that is cool

Awesome, congratulations!


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Did you mount the gas block to the barrel yet? I found an easy way to align it.

You need a very fine tip marker or scribe, and a long ruler or straight edge. Place the straight edge on top of the barrel aligning the gas tube slot on the upper with the center of the muzzle. The gas port should be in line with those two points. Mark a line running parallel to the straight edge an inch or two ahead of the gas pot hole. Then measure from the center of the hole in the bottom of the gas block to the end of the gas block where the gas tube enters. Mark the same distance along the center line you already marked on the barrel. Then you can align the gas tube home in the block with the center line and stop at the cross mark.

Of course some barrels have a lip for the blocks to stop at so you would only need to align the center line with the gas tube hole in the block.

What I described sounds a lot harder than it actually is to do. If it isn’t clear, reply back and I will see if I can clarify.

I will try your method and see.


BTW 940 JM PRO "IN DA HOUSE!"




https://external-content.duckduckgo....900&f=1&nofb=1

Beautiful shotgun, I’m jealous.


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Oh, don't be. I'm sure all of you have "inventories" that would dwarf mine.



Two more items added to mine 2 days ago, awaiting shipment on both. This would "complete" the list of items I lost due to having to sell them. Anything after this would be additional "new" acquisitions.


#1) GSG 1911 .22LR


https://external-content.duckduckgo....jpg&f=1&nofb=1



And #2) Smith & Wesson M & P Shield in a "Bug Out" kit.


https://p1.gunbroker.com/pics/888734...x171927166.jpg


I'm a little concerned about #2) above. The seller has been "unresponsive" so far. And I see in his ratings that he has had "F" grades due to that issue, but only 6 out of several thousand. I hope I'm not the 7th. I'll give him another week and then I'll "start the process."

Here is hoping he comes through on his end.


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