S&W M&P CORE Custom
Howdy all,
Just decided to take a break from building Glocks and started to shoot M&P's in Steel Challenge. Started with a Stock PORTED CORE added a STS red dot, slide racker and Apex Trigger system (FF, FS,with competition springs 2.8#'s) But not being able to leave well enough alone and wanting a back up gun I traded for a New M&P 4.25" CORE First, I added the red dot (C-More STS) on top. Then I added an Apex trigger system (same as above) and Slide Racker. To continue, I added a full length un-captured guide rod with an ISMI 13# spring. (guide rod sticks out a little from the slide) and it supports the full length of the barrel. The gun worked great and I decided I wanted a lighter slide and put the slide on our mill and cut windows on the top and on the sides. I had to re-tune the spring for the lighter slide. I had a friend of mine who is in the Cerakota business re finish the slide in (his selection) Burnt Bronze. Actually is looks ok with Black small parts. ]I might gibe him the Maxwell to re-finsh to match the slide. I also added a set of Talon Grips (but I think I will trim them and maybe match the backstop to the slide also (still do not know) My load that I use is a 147g Hi-Tech coated bullet, with 3.5g of Titegroup and Federal Primers. The mags all have TT bases on them to wrk with the Maxwell. http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...hoto/CORE1.jpg http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...hoto/CORE2.jpg http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...hoto/CORE3.jpg GaryR |
Very nice Gary, really like that. The color is perfect for that thing. Milling is nice too, the only thing I am not a fan of on any gun is the charging handle on the back of the slide. I know it a competition thing and its a very handy item but just hate them!
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I use to feel the same about them, until you have a jam, it is easier to pull the handle and get the next round then trying to get around the red dot sight. Interesting point, A lot of Tach Shooters are now trying with them, an easy way to rack the slide if your Strong hand gets damaged , you can hook the racker on the belt, pocket, almost anything and get a clean racking of the slide. And no I have not tried it, but I do use it while training. (load the mag with both live and dummy rounds) and use the racket=r to clear the dummy round. Anyway, at this point I have decide to keep the project the way it is and not do another color on the gun. Well, back to the drawing board.... Looking for an O/U for sporting clays GaryR |
Nice project
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that looks awesome GaryR!!!
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That looks great! Not a big fan of the holes or handle but, me likey!
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Thanks Guys The windows in the slide actually play an important part in speed shooting, it lets the slide loose some weight and reciprocate faster..But note that the barrel is NOT Ported so I am not loosing any push through the barrel. GaryR |
Do you guys do relief cuts or serrations to match the rear OEM serrations?
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looks good
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There is always the next gun :D GaryR |
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Come on down to my neck of the woods and we can take it to the range for you to play with |
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PS: I was going the ask wy you didn't remove the writing/logos before refinishing. But, I guess you just answered that question, LOL... |
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I might at some time shave the sides , and finish the serrations on the front and then refinish it again. But my personal guns are always an on going project:facepalm: |
Nice project and gun sir nanner
Thinking hard about an M&P pro to replace my current glock competition gun. Is the Apex trigger system a must? |
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Howdy Only if you want to win:D The M&P tigger even on the gun from the Performance center (I have 2 of them) if I can they Suck! I have done about 4 M&P's trigger system's on guns that are going to be used in competition in the past two months. Also, after Cerkoting your slide, REMEMBER, that you have to re-zero your red to or scope. The coating does add some hight to the slide and the mount. The APEX trigger system I think is the best for M&P's GaryR |
Thank you for the detailed info Gary. Much appreciated
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Pitor What the Apex trigger gives you is a new sear, springs for the trigger (1 will give you a 5# trigger, one for 4# pull and if you leave the factor trigger spring in you can go 3#'s or less (around 28#'s) you also get a forward set sear and you ca get a kit with a Flat face Trigger ( I use them and they are great). They have very little to no over travel pr under travel. you can then add a competition striker spring kit and adjust the striker hit ( I use Federal Primers in my loads). The last thing to do is add a full length SS Guide rod (4.25") and a 13# ( or so) ISMI recoil spring. And then test,test test GaryR |
Awesome info, thanks Gary 👍👍👍
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