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Which brass to keep?
Ok, sorted through every piece of brass tonight.
All the off brands/onesy, twosy I tossed in a misc. bin. Oh yeah, they're all large primer. I have the following Manuf. and amounts (roughly) WINCHESTER-150 -200 PIECES (I KNOW TO KEEP THIS) Should I keep or toss the remaining? REMINGTON-4 DOZ FEDERAL-3 DOZ CCI-3 DOZ SPEER-2 DOZ STARLINE-1 DOZ CBC -1 DOZ PMC- MORE THAN A GALLON ZIPLOC BAGS WORTH!!! |
ellison, I've reloaded all of those. I haven't had any problems so far. I used to do the same thing you did, separate by head stamp. Not any more, too time consuming and from everything I've read and have been told, it doesn't make much appreciable difference to spend the time doing it. But, if it makes you feel like you'll be producing better reloads, go for it.
You might find that some of the brands have tighter/looser primer pockets. You'll feel the difference when you seat the primers. You can take your calipers and measure a random mix of different brand case lengths to see if you have a wide variance in case lengths for setting up your dies. That would be the only reason I could see to separate brands. Take this with a grain of salt, I've only been reloading for a little while. ETA: I did have some problems with Remington brass. I picked up some cases from BRAND NEW +P hollow points that I had just fired and noticed that the cases were cracked from the case mouth to about halfway down the case. I looked at the rest of the UNFIRED cartridges in the box and out of the 42 rounds left in the box, 18 of them had hairline cracks in them (before even being fired). So, it pays to inspect your ammo, reloads and brand new factory rounds too. |
I keep 'em all. When I get home from the range, I sort the brass (9mm, 40 and .45). I'll toss a bunch of one or the other in the tumbler and let it run for a while. I don't really paying attention until I'm loading, then I'll give it a look over before I put it on the press. I've never worried to much about sorting head stamps.
Lane |
Thanks Terry and Lane!
The reason I asked this question, finally, was that I've heard conflicting stories about brass-which is good, which ones are bad, etc... Oh, I forgot one thing, when I pull a bullet and deprime it, can I reuse the primer if it looks ok? Thanks again, Ell |
You're brave. When I screw up a case, I drop the EMPTY case in a pistol and fire it to set the primer off and just re-size and de-cap the case. I don't want to try to de-cap a live primer on my progressive press, too close to the tube of live primers. :eek:
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I have deprimed live primers on my press - but like Hoss says it's scary as hell and not something you want to be doing if you can help it. I do not reuse a primer that I've pushed out. They are cheap enough that I don't feel like it's worth it. Lane |
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Never thought about that, just "popping it off", might have to try that! I use a single stage, so no live primers are near, except the ones that I've just punched out that are in the catch. |
Hay Ell,
Keep all the brass. Who knows, you might end up with more of that odd ball stuff. Then you can have a hole box of bastard bullets.:D Since you are using a single stage press, you will learn what feels right. You'll know will when you have a bad case. When you start de-primming / resizing and you come across one that has very little resistance, stop and check the casing, make sure there aren't any cracks. If something doesn't seem right then STOP. As far as separating by head stamp. I have mixed thoughts, yes it would be great if you separated your stash. But if you don't have the time no biggie. If you are looking for accuracy then by all means separate you brass. This is a low pressure round you can reload them many more times compared to 9mm. And yes, you can pop out the primer with the press. DO IT GENTLY. You can also reuse that primer. |
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Terry, Agreed. I wouldn't recommend de-priming a progressive press. Greg |
As long as none of it is aluminum keep it all!!
Just check well for cracks or splits!! |
With some cartridges, I use different brass brands to make it easy to identify different loads that use the same bullet.
I've used all of the ones listed except CBC with good results. Grizz |
Skosh, keep it all. I load single stage on a Lee Classic Turret press and I prefer to hand prime. Like some of the others, I sort, then tumble, THEN look over the brass for splits etc.... after its clean. It's just easier that way for me. I also don't pay too much attention to headstamps. I used to, but I reload for practice and plinking, not for competition, so the need just isn't really there (again, its just my opinion). Brass that's not in your caliber? Throw it all in a bucket. It's brass. Its worth something on the scrap market. I must have 4 -5 thousand .45 acp brass right now, several thousands of 9 mm, and another few thousands of .40 cal. And I don't load 40 or 9mm. I've got the dies, its just cheaper to by 9mm than to reload it (TODAY... who knows about the WTSHTF day) Don't go bad.... got the room, a few 5 gallon buckets from Home Depot and I'm good to go.
Depriming? Not on a progressive. If you choose to do it on a single stage, be sure you put your "ears" on, and for God's sake... keep your hands clear!!! In fact, just do what the others said. Take it outside and shoot the primer, or throw it in a bucket and dispose of at the range. Have a great morning!!! DaFadda |
I even save the small pistol primer 45ACP cases. Maybe I'll go to a match where I can't police up my brass? They'd work well there.:rolleyes:
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Ell, don't worry about seperating headstamps, there's not enough difference for general use reloads to worry about it. My reloads are all mixed headstamp.
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Clyde |
Keep the ones that say "put powder here":p
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and here I was...trying awfully hard to be diplomatic about this. |
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:facepalm:..."Slinky's"...that's all I got to say, "Slinky's".......
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heheheheeeeee....hi, buddy..you need Noel to show up to take the heat off you:p
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