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-   -   Nickel kisses off of stainless? (https://www.cotep.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13547)

Blackgun 10-02-2016 10:45 PM

Nickel kisses off of stainless?
 
I was shooting nickel plated brass(gold dots), and have some nickel marks in my matte stainless slide[emoji26] is there something that will take these off? All of my brass kiss removal methods are not working. Thanks!http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...6ed5a28c99.jpg

Lonestar grips. 10-02-2016 11:49 PM

never had this problem before but if it were me i'd try 0000 steel wool and see if that did anything.

Blackgun 10-02-2016 11:56 PM

Nickel kisses off of stainless?
 
Thanks! I'm nervous about making the sandblast finish shinny though. I was hoping there was some chemical or something that would lift it off.

NAMVET72 10-03-2016 03:06 AM

Try Flitz metal polish and small cotton ball < Good Luck. I don't use nickel plated brass in auto pistols are rifles for that reason,


Clyde

DaFadda 10-03-2016 05:01 AM

Here are the Scotchbrite pad ratings. You might try a white (1200-1500 grit) or a blue (1000) grit. Very carefully so as not to damage the sandblasting.

3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Green Scotch Brite is available EVERYWHERE. It's 600 grit.
Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M Chart

BUT.... If it was my gun, I would start even simpler. Consider trying a Mr. Clean white "Magic Eraser" and some plain water. I'll bet you have one under the kitchen sink already. It is so gentle, that I don't think it would do any damage to the finish. All said, I don't know the finish, so whatever you choose to do, do cautiously.

wxl 10-03-2016 07:55 AM

Try Kleenbore Gun Care Lead Away Gun Cloth or equivalent (Birchwood Casey, Midway brand, etc). Works great on cleaning stains on my stainless revolver cylinders.

DrHenley 10-03-2016 08:29 AM

Nickle is a tough one to remove. Strong ammonia bore solvent - something like Butch's Bore Shine or Sweet's 7.62 - might loosen it up. Any mechanical method of removal will likely put a shine on the finish.

http://www.cotep.org/forum/picture.p...pictureid=1046

Blackgun 10-03-2016 09:12 AM

Thanks everyone! I'll do some cautious experimenting.

AFJuvat 10-03-2016 09:12 AM

0000 steel wool wrapped around a toothpick and worked over the spots would probably do it and not polish the rest of the surrounding area.

Crocus cloth (jewelers rouge) might work too.

Blackgun 10-03-2016 09:26 AM

Thanks! I'll give it a shot!

RKP 10-03-2016 09:30 AM

I used 'Kroil' to remove some light brass kisses from my DW CCO although it has the duty black finish, it worked great!! .... it's worth a try on your stainless.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Blackgun 10-03-2016 09:32 AM

Thanks! I ordered some. I was able to use bore cleaner on brass, but not budging the nickel kisses.

brownie 10-03-2016 12:05 PM

Why bother unless you'll stop shooting nickel cases in the future. You'll be back to the same problem. ;)

Blackgun 10-03-2016 12:07 PM

I'm thinking the ejector needs some tuning, so hopefully it won't happen anymore. [emoji120]

DaFadda 10-03-2016 02:33 PM

Oh.... just bring it to your FFL and ask them to send it to me. Tell them that its a gift, and that you just don't want it anymore because its no longer a perfect gun... Trust me... I'm a nice guy. LOL!

DaFadda

Sheepdog 10-03-2016 03:44 PM

If it has smoothed the sandblast finish you might try a piece of sandpaper and a small hammer to restore the rough finish.

Blackgun 10-03-2016 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaFadda (Post 137894)
Oh.... just bring it to your FFL and ask them to send it to me. Tell them that its a gift, and that you just don't want it anymore because its no longer a perfect gun... Trust me... I'm a nice guy. LOL!



DaFadda


Ok...it's on its way![emoji12]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sheepdog (Post 137899)
If it has smoothed the sandblast finish you might try a piece of sandpaper and a small hammer to restore the rough finish.


Thanks! I just set it to CZ for warranty work. Fix ejection and finish.

Horse'nround 10-10-2016 11:58 AM

So here's my 2 cents. Hope I don't piss everybody off. :eek:
Lots of good ideas, but be forewarned you are venturing into the land of permanent change. The nickel kisses are very similar to the consistency of your stainless slide and your biggest problem is they are on a matte finish. By definition (not Merriam Webster); A matte surface is a dull finish of random contours of similar consistency... any attempt to remove the adulteration by hand will change the surface consistency (ie: leave witness marks). Sheepdog's method will most likely yield the best results (BUT DON'T USE A HAMMER) as it will leave marks too. Use a leather mallet or a block of wood and tap lightly! The trick here will be finding sandpaper of similar texture, most likely 3M corundum in 220 or 320, you have to be very-very careful not to rub when placing the sandpaper.
The original surface is applied by beading... sandblasting technique using glass bead, there are a variety of methods to re-apply or repair this type of surface. A cheap sandblaster kit from harbor freight (they also sell small bags of bead too). Another alternative is baking soda and WaterPik toothbrush. Making a slurry of baking soda and water and running it through the waterpik, the trick here is getting enough soda in the water to effect change on the slide and not plugging up the watepik. I have repaired several scratched and lightly damaged slide tops by rebeading. Use masking tape to cover the satin or machined surfaces. Start your beading approximately 10 to 12" from the surface and work your way in until you achieve the finish you want. If it becomes necessary (because it won't blend) you can rebead the whole slide top. Yes in most cases a blast cabinet is used but you're not doing this on a regular basis, so it's not necessary (safety glasses ARE!) and yes you will need a small cheap air compressor.
Here are few links to cheap tools to do the job.
http://www.harborfreight.com/gravity...gun-93221.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/portabl...kit-37025.html

Some different grades of media.
http://www.harborfreight.com/rock-po...ves-30956.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/50-lbs-...dia-65929.html

I hope this helps.

Blackgun 10-10-2016 12:21 PM

Nickel kisses off of stainless?
 
Wow! What a great reply, with very usable info! Thanks very much!! I'll reference this if it happens again. Sent gun in for warranty work on the ejection problems, and they fixed the slide finish. On the way back to me. Man...their customer service is excellent!!!

Sheepdog 10-10-2016 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Horse'nround (Post 138278)
So here's my 2 cents. Hope I don't piss everybody off. :eek:
Lots of good ideas, but be forewarned you are venturing into the land of permanent change. The nickel kisses are very similar to the consistency of your stainless slide and your biggest problem is they are on a matte finish. By definition (not Merriam Webster); A matte surface is a dull finish of random contours of similar consistency... any attempt to remove the adulteration by hand will change the surface consistency (ie: leave witness marks). Sheepdog's method will most likely yield the best results (BUT DON'T USE A HAMMER) as it will leave marks too. Use a leather mallet or a block of wood and tap lightly! The trick here will be finding sandpaper of similar texture, most likely 3M corundum in 220 or 320, you have to be very-very careful not to rub when placing the sandpaper.
The original surface is applied by beading... sandblasting technique using glass bead, there are a variety of methods to re-apply or repair this type of surface. A cheap sandblaster kit from harbor freight (they also sell small bags of bead too). Another alternative is baking soda and WaterPik toothbrush. Making a slurry of baking soda and water and running it through the waterpik, the trick here is getting enough soda in the water to effect change on the slide and not plugging up the watepik. I have repaired several scratched and lightly damaged slide tops by rebeading. Use masking tape to cover the satin or machined surfaces. Start your beading approximately 10 to 12" from the surface and work your way in until you achieve the finish you want. If it becomes necessary (because it won't blend) you can rebead the whole slide top. Yes in most cases a blast cabinet is used but you're not doing this on a regular basis, so it's not necessary (safety glasses ARE!) and yes you will need a small cheap air compressor.
Here are few links to cheap tools to do the job.
http://www.harborfreight.com/gravity...gun-93221.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/portabl...kit-37025.html

Some different grades of media.
http://www.harborfreight.com/rock-po...ves-30956.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/50-lbs-...dia-65929.html

I hope this helps.

I should have been clearer. I was thinking a nylon headed gunsmith hammer. You can always polish a smooth finnish but it is tough to re ruff one.

Lonestar grips. 10-11-2016 01:47 AM

i think the only answer for your problem Blackgun is to trade your Dan Wesson for a Glock. let me see if i can find one locally and i'll send it to you. in the meantime go ahead and send that CBOB my way.:D

Blackgun 10-11-2016 01:51 AM

[emoji12]That was a valiant effort!

sdmc530 10-11-2016 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blackgun (Post 138296)
[emoji12]That was a valiant effort!

:banhim: Hehehe


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