FMJ and LRN down the same barrel
 

I guess this would be in the reloading section because it is a question about bullets. Talking to Matt earlier about some reloading I was doing for my range trip this weekend and mentioned I was loading some of my cast lead .45 bullets for the Rock Island 1911. He said that lead isn't too good in 1911s. I have thought lead would not be reccomended in anything with a gas port because shavings could block the port. However 1911 is a straight barrel. I know some say switching back and forth could lead to some lead, and copper fouling layering on top of each other but what about just lead?

I shoot lead in my 1911's without any problems. as long as your lead isn't too soft and the bullets are sized correctly then you should be ok.

fyi, bevel base bullets are more prone to leading since gases can more easily get past the base and soften the lead causing it to streak. if the leading isn't too severe you can shoot a few jacketed bullets and it should clean out your barrel.

if you have severe leading then you can use Copper Chore Boy cleaning pads wrapped around an old bore brush for a snug fit. Make sure that you use the Chore Boy brand. The off brands may just be copper washed steel and scratch your barrel up.

Lead bullets tend to suffer nose damage in sem-autos, reducing their accuracy.

Generally not a problem if the alloy is hard enough.

I load and shoot lead. Like Dick Goesinya said, take a magnet with ya and buy real Chore Boy. Wilson Combat has a video about it

Thanks for the input. I cast using wheel weights and have been told that is harder than pure lead. I did shoot some FMJ through it but with free lead I will be shooting more .45 cast. I run them through a Lee .451 sizer. They come out with a flat base.

I was contemplating shooting lead in my M&P40C since I already have .401 dies from loading 38-40. However since that is my EDC I will keep it with just jacketed ammo. Untill I start experimenting with powder coating .401 cast lead and see that it won't lead my barrel. If I can get the powder coating down good then it would open up more casting for Blackout and others.

wheel weights are plenty hard as is for range shooting (generally 9-10 BNH) but if you water drop them they'll be even harder.

powder coating is the best way to go nowadays.

if you're still learning about it I suggest you read through this thread. http://singleactions.proboards.com/t...ating-question

Dick Thompson aka Sixshot is a Major Handgun hunter and when it comes to cast bullets I trust his word over just about anyone else's.

Tank Hoover knows a thing or two about it as well. http://americanhandgunner.com/homebr...-to-lube-them/

Dick Goesinya o busy out laughing every tome i read that.


I have loaded with lead but like already stated accuracy tanked for me so i dont unless its plated.

Balderdash!

I shoot nothing but lead in my Dan Wesson. I have some 1911s that shoot jacketed only, and some that shoot both. But I use the DW in IDPA, and casting my own bullets is the only way I can afford to practice enough to shoot competitively. I figure about 7 cents per round. That would be $3.50 per box of fifty.

If you use the right powder, have sufficient lube, and the right alloy, and the bullets are the correct size for the bore, leading is reduced tremendously. There is always a little, but it doesn't build up fast if you get everything right. And it helps tremendously if your barrel is high quality with a well polished bore. And if it isn't, just shoot a few thousand cast bullets through it and it will be well polished!

You need a quick powder like Bullseye or Trail Boss to "bump up" the bullet.

I used to use straight wheel weights, but I am now mixing in a little tin and linotype. They aren't hard-cast and the noses do deform slightly, but they are still darned accurate and super reliable.

The best commercial bullets I've used were Oregon Trail Laser-Cast 230 gr round nosed. (when I'm too lazy to cast my own) I have had serious leading (and poor accuracy) with some brands of cast, especially Speer and Remington.

Jim, my load is 228gr wheel weights, quenched in a bucket of water, mixed head stamp brass with Remington Large Pistol primer. 5.0 grains of Bullseye. I use liquid alox tumble lube and size to .451.

I was having some issues with my first few batches of reloads because the crimp die was crimping before the bullet was set all the way and it was building up lead around the top rim of the case. With the build up the bullets wouldn't go fully into battery. I learned about the plunk test with the barrel. I still have a couple rounds that were a little tight but the Lee Alox is sticky stuff sometimes.

When I tried using just the bullets as they came out the bullet mold (Lee 452-228-1R) were too big and budged the brass.

Tomorrow is range day so I will update then.