The Microtech SOCOM tanto is another design worth examining. It is ostensibly an Americanized tanto. However, the designers have made a large number of interesting tweaks to enhance the design. First, for point control, the point is clipped slightly and the blade meets the handle at an angle -- both of these things bring the point in-line for control. To make the point a better piercer, the front bevel is at a much smaller angle to the point than is normally seen. The normally straight edge is slightly curved, and combined with the low-angle front edge, the secondary point ends up not very sharp. So this is a tanto with a bit of a belly, and combined with the blade/handle angle, functions well as a slasher/slicer. Lastly, Microtech ground in false edge bevels on the spine, which disappear near the point. This leaves the point full width for strength, but removes some weight (and adds good looks) along the spine.
A Hunter
A.G. Russell's Deerhunter is a drop-point format, and is flat ground like many hunters, to provide a thin edge that cuts exceptionally well. To improve the geometry even more, the spine is <.125", making the entire package extraordinarily thin. As a result, the knife wouldn't be a great choice for prying, but for slicing and push-cutting it is outstanding.
A Custom-Made Folder
To show the kind of tweaking that can be done, I will describe a custom folder I had made for me by Allen Elishewitz. The blade has the dual-grind of a tanto. That is, flat grind up front near the point, hollow grind along the straight edge. However, this knife is not a tanto, it is a drop point. So this knife has the tip strength of a tanto, but the useful belly of a drop point, and a dropped point for better control. In addition, the point has false edge bevels ground in, which makes it penetrate a bit better. In short, we took the massive point strength of a tanto, but ground it on the more useful utility shape like a drop point, then ground in bevels to make piercing ability a bit better. Tweak and tune!
LINERLOCK TESTS
Liner Lock Tests, by A.T. Barr and Joe Talmadge
A well-made liner lock is a beautiful thing. The action is smooth, the lock is very strong, and it can be opened and closed one-handed. However, it is easy for the knifemaker to make a mistake on a liner lock. Many common mistakes can result in the lock accidently unlocking, and this is a serious threat to fingers. Below are some of the tests we recommend a potential buyer try on a liner lock. Keep in mind that many of the factory knives easily pass all the tests below, while many knives from custom makers -- including those lauded in the knife rags -- often don't pass. Test your knives, don't assume the more expensive knife has the more secure lock-up!
One caveat is that the second of A.T.'s suggestions, the "palm-on-spine" and "whack-the-spine" tests, are a bit controversial. We both feel that a blade should never close due to palm pressure, and a moderate whack on the spine shouldn't make a blade fold up either. Some makes say that a knife in normal use does not ever get whacked on the spine, so this test is not real-world. You can decide for yourself how secure you think the lock should be.
A.T. Barr's tests
You don't want your blade to open except when you want it to. Always check for a good detent ball to blade tang contact. Open your liner lock normally and then close it very slowly. The blade *should* snap closed the last 1/16" or so.
Open your knife blade very slowly, until the lock engages. Do not snap it open. You want the tension of the liner lock to just snap to the tang of the knife. Then do two things. First turn the knife over, and using the palm of your hand try to close the blade. It should not close. Then strike the blade spine on the table. Not real hard, but it needs some pressure. It should not close.
Snap the blade open REAL FAST, then close it. If it takes a lot of pressure to unlock the blade, walk away from that knife. Open the knife blade real slow, and check for any movement. Sideways or up & down.
Great tip
Also, if your liner lock has a sloppy lock-up, sometimes you can help it by snapping the blade open and then half-way hard striking the blade (try to close it) on it's tang. That will help seat the Titanium liner to the tang of the blade. If that does not work, send it back to the maker. Be careful when you do this. If the blade does disengage, the blade will hit your knuckle. A number of rec.knife readers have reported good results using this tip.
|