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#1
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It looks like Brownells sells it - but I've got to think I should be able to find it locally (don't you use it for engine work or something?)
Anyway, what's the best to use for pistol smithing? Lane
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"Be nice - everyone you meet is facing a hard battle" - Marjorie P. Hinckley Dungeon Master - LASCO Leather, Home of the COTEP Deacon COTEP #268 |
#2
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Here you go Lane a Little Bit of Info:
Lapping compound (finer than 320 grit, but preferably 600 grit or finer; Clover brand is the minimum quality you should buy, but try to look for better-quality compounds in places like Brownell’s catalog) ![]()
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CBOB:0002 1905 Savage 380, 1978, 1980 DW Pistol Pacs, Severns Custom 1985 Springer 1911A1, 09 DW Marksman, S&W Model 19-6, GSG 1911 22LR. , S&W Model 29-2 |
#3
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This will work just fine for you Lane. I picked up the large one at my local gun shop. I just mix up a little with some FP-10 and go from there. Works just fine for me!!
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"This is the 44 Magnum AutoMag and holds a 300 grain cartridge and if properly used can remove the fingerprints"!! COTEP # CBOB0152 Last edited by AutoMag; 01-20-2012 at 11:51 AM. |
#4
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+1 .. this is very good stuff.
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Drag not your strength from government but from the voices they abuse COTEP #236 |
#5
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Thanks - is this a powder? Why do you mix in the FP-10?
Lane
__________________
"Be nice - everyone you meet is facing a hard battle" - Marjorie P. Hinckley Dungeon Master - LASCO Leather, Home of the COTEP Deacon COTEP #268 |
#6
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Valve lapping compound should be easily found at any auto parts store locally.
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#7
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Lane, it is more like a hard paste. The FP-10 just makes it easier to work with and probably cuts it down a bit. It is really not an aggressive compound so you should be good to go with it.
I just mix the two together to form a loose paste and go to town with it. I have lapped many a frame to slide with it. ![]()
__________________
"This is the 44 Magnum AutoMag and holds a 300 grain cartridge and if properly used can remove the fingerprints"!! COTEP # CBOB0152 |