Cerakote

[Cap]

Originally Posted by Mike45

I have Norrell's on my Rock MS Bobtail and it has held up really well.

What process is "Norrel's", Mike??

is it a nitrite bath??
(or however they do Glock's tenifer, Sig's Nitron or S&W's Melonite
which are all essentially the same as I understand it
And all very good from my experience

If I refinish one in a non DIY spray 'n bake finish, I plan to go that route

..L.T.A.

[Mike45]

Originally Posted by Cap

What process is "Norrel's", Mike??

is it a nitrite bath??
(or however they do Glock's tenifer, Sig's Nitron or S&W's Melonite
which are all essentially the same as I understand it
And all very good from my experience

If I refinish one in a non DIY spray 'n bake finish, I plan to go that route

..L.T.A.

Here is a link to Norrell's site Cap.

From the above link the following is a partial description:

A note about the difference between a typical paint and coatings like Moly Resin. A typical paint is a formulation of ments and other ingredients diluted with a solvent. When the solvent evaporates, the ments harden and that hard residue is what is referred to as paint. Unfortunately, paint is susceptable and damaged easily and removed by many, if not most chemical solvents, acids, gun cleaners, bore cleaners, etc. A coating like Moly Resin thermally cured or air cure coatings are actual a complex mix of phenolics, polymers, etc. that are highly reactive to each other but kept from reacting by a catalyst mixed into the coating formula. The catalyst is activated by heat at a certain temperature or by oxygen as in the Air Dry Moly product. Once the catalyst is activated, a chemical reaction occurs between the various chemical to form a totally new substance. The new substance formed becomes very hard and resistant to the original solvents used to dissolve the original phenolics and other base resins, etc. This is why Moly Resin is not considered to be a paint.

He also puts molybdenum in the mix which is a lubricant so not only do you get a very resistant coating but a self lubricating coating at that.

You care for it just like you would parkerization -- clean it and oil it.

[tubbs]

Im not to keen up on Cerakote. If its the rattle can stuff I dont think its that durable from reviews that I have read. I do know that Duracote is some pretty nice stuff. My cousin does Duracote and as long as you let it cure out it will hold up for a while

[SemperFi1977m]

Anything spray on like Cerakote will wear with use just like park & bluing. The nitrite baths like Cap mentioned are tough as nails....but you are not likely to ever reverse it, so be sure you like it lol. Im going to give the nitrite treatment called Atranite a try on my build.

[Mike45]

Norrell's you have to use an air brush to apply.

Here are some pic's of my ware.

Magwell



beavertail



rail left side



rail right side

[Mike45]

More images

Dust shield



Right side slide end



Left side slide end



Back side

[Mike45]

The worst of it is the gunsmith that did the coating over sandblasted the frame and did not put a heavy enough coat.



and

[Snipersnest]

I had a blued Colt New Detective Special I bought back in the early 70's. It was a daily carry for me for a lot of years. I had read about a new process called Armoloy, they were out of Texas I believe. I shipped it and had the process done. After all these years, even though it was dragged through the mud, the blood, the guts and the beer, there is absolutely no wear on the coating. It's easier to clean and basically guaranteed not to rust, bust, buckle or bend. Back then it cost around $50 to have the process done. I don't know what the cost is nowadays, but it would be worth the cost to have it done if anyone is interested. I'll take some photos if anyone wants and post them here.

[Olympus]

Never used Cerakote, but I used Duracoat and I obtained the same results as Mike45 posted. I was very unimpressed. If I were going to spend my money on something other than bluing, I would look into the ion-bond type treatments like Hard Hat.

[zenfly]

From all I've read in reports over the years there are two best choices..
Severns custom Hard Hat, or DLC IonBond is what they coat oil well drill bits for drilling through rock.. IonBond is also used on cutter bits for hard metals..
I've never read a report about anyone who wasn't thrilled with Hard Hat or any of Severns work and will be my choice when CBOB gets a little more beat up..