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Old 02-08-2012, 06:26 PM
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I don't know , he said it does it with factory ammo too. That's what threw me. I can see the re-loads making him have hiccups but not the factory ammo. I think it's not an ammo problem but I'm in no way qualified to suggest a fix.

I was going to suggest that Dave will probably diagnose it for him

On the rare occasion that I have a failure to return to battery with my re-loads, I can just bump the back of the slide with the side of my fist and it goes into battery.
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Old 02-08-2012, 06:33 PM
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It's lubed with FP10 every 100 rounds
Crimp seemed fine, once the jam cleared i re-fed the round that was in the chamber when it initially jammed.. The second time it went through without a problem.. really weird.

Previous time, i had this issue, i got the round out
retried with another round from the same batch, same problem
got the round out again
put in a snap cap , no problem, hammer fell on the snap cap
got original round in a gain, same problem re-occurred
snap cap back in, no problem , hammer falls
Got a factory round in there, same problem again
out with the round
racked the slide a good 5 times without letting it slam on an empty chamber to badly..
loaded the factory ammo, gun fires
then i ran 3 mags of factory ammo , rapid fire, no problem
in with the original round of the 1st jam, goes through without a problem

i'm like huh?!
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Old 02-08-2012, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoss in IL View Post

On the rare occasion that I have a failure to return to battery with my re-loads, I can just bump the back of the slide with the side of my fist and it goes into battery.
I've had it fail to battery with the cheap mec gar mags a few times
When that happened there was a visible gap between the breech face and the barrel. And in those cases i could bump it shut

This is different, as the slide does not want to move, it's feels very stuck , needs quite some effort to release.
And there is no gap at the barrel / breech face
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Old 02-08-2012, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svandamme View Post
I've had it fail to battery with the cheap mec gar mags a few times
When that happened there was a visible gap between the breech face and the barrel. And in those cases i could bump it shut

This is different, as the slide does not want to move, it's feels very stuck , needs quite some effort to release.
And there is no gap at the barrel / breech face
This sounds like the extractor is too tight. Too tight can cause it not to go fully into battery and also make it very hard to eject a live round.
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:01 PM
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something else to check is the length of your cases. No longer than .898". Also, you may want to take a 357 case, inside champher it til the edge is sharp and scrape out the headspace ring.Sometimes, especially if your cases are shorter than the ring, crud will build up in the headspace ring(45ACP and all Semi-auto cartridges that're straightwalled, headspace on the case-mouth).

Another thing, how many rounds on the Recoil spring?
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Last edited by Dave Waits; 02-08-2012 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:14 PM
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Nice tip on using the .357 case as a carbon scraper, Dave. I'm going to make a couple of them.
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Old 02-09-2012, 03:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadOscar View Post
This sounds like the extractor is too tight. Too tight can cause it not to go fully into battery and also make it very hard to eject a live round.

Would this be something i can set when i reassemble it?
Or is this a case of extractor needs to be modified?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Waits View Post
something else to check is the length of your cases. No longer than .898".
I'll measure then, they had only been fired/reloaded once, had not measured them previously, was planning to do that on the second reload.
They are all from the same batch of factory Fiocchi.. I do't pickup other brass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Waits View Post
Also, you may want to take a 357 case, inside champher it til the edge is sharp and scrape out the headspace ring.Sometimes, especially if your cases are shorter than the ring, crud will build up in the headspace ring(45ACP and all Semi-auto cartridges that're straightwalled, headspace on the case-mouth).
I'll look into it, but i don't think there's much carbon in there, it's been cleaned with brake cleaner before, but i'll check.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Waits View Post

Another thing, how many rounds on the Recoil spring?
About 700 Factory Fiocchi ball + around (600) softer reloads

How long should a spring last, and do you know what number Wolfs Spring goes in a PM7/45?


I did notice that the reloads with AA#7 seemed to make it dirtier then the Factory or VV N340 loads.. I was planning to discontinue the use of AA#7.. for this and other reasons (small flake, doesn't flow well in the power meter, the power also shakes out of the shells to easy on the 650, i generally don't like the AA7)


Thanks for all the tips Guys, i'm learning things here, much appreciated!
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Last edited by svandamme; 02-09-2012 at 12:28 PM.
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Old 02-09-2012, 12:58 PM
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Stijn, if you can get it I would recommend using Hodgdons' HP-38. It's the same powder as ww231 only less expensive. Burns very clean. Hodgdon owns the Winchester powder business now and all their powders are made by Hodgdon.

AA-7 is actually a little slow for the 45ACP, this and other powders at this point on the Burn-Chart may be what's causing your problem. 45ACP is a low intensity cartridge and powders for it should be on the fast side. There's not enough pressure-build to burn slower powders. If you want to stick with Alliant powder, I would recommend AA-5.

As for your spring, it should last about 3000 rounds or so, should be a 16lb.spring and the closed-end should go around the Guide-rod for proper operation.

What are using to lube the slide with? Either run it wet or use a good gun-grease like Plastilube or Tetra-Lube.

At this point, it seems that you have a fairly new gun and it's just breaking in. However, unburnt powder from the AA-7 and the lube you're using could be forming a sludge that's slowing down the slide.

One more thing it might be, what is your crimp diameter at the casemouth, should measure .470-.472.

Dave
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Last edited by Dave Waits; 02-09-2012 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 02-09-2012, 01:47 PM
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The last of the AA7 is out , i'm sticking with the N340 now, but i'll get some faster VV next time.. VihtaVuori lists N320 , N340 and N350, i went with the middle.

Spring was/is installed as you describe

No lube, just plenty of FP10, it sweats when it warms, so i'm pretty sure it's wet enough


I'll check the crimp over the weekend, I'm loading 5-600 rounds , brass is tumbling as we speak..
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Last edited by svandamme; 02-09-2012 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 02-09-2012, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Waits View Post
Stijn, if you can get it I would recommend using Hodgdons' HP-38. It's the same powder as ww231 only less expensive. Burns very clean. Hodgdon owns the Winchester powder business now and all their powders are made by Hodgdon.

AA-7 is actually a little slow for the 45ACP, this and other powders at this point on the Burn-Chart may be what's causing your problem. 45ACP is a low intensity cartridge and powders for it should be on the fast side. There's not enough pressure-build to burn slower powders. If you want to stick with Alliant powder, I would recommend AA-5.

As for your spring, it should last about 3000 rounds or so, should be a 16lb.spring and the closed-end should go around the Guide-rod for proper operation.

What are using to lube the slide with? Either run it wet or use a good gun-grease like Plastilube or Tetra-Lube.

At this point, it seems that you have a fairly new gun and it's just breaking in. However, unburnt powder from the AA-7 and the lube you're using could be forming a sludge that's slowing down the slide.

One more thing it might be, what is your crimp diameter at the casemouth, should measure .470-.472.

Dave
See what I mean?? This guy is a genius!!



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