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#1
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I use FP-10 and generally put a drop or two in each rail chase of the slide every 100 rounds and a drop on the top of the disconnector. I lock the slide back oil it near the back then hold it vertical so gravity takes the oil down and coats the length of the chase way. Never had a galling problem with any of the DW's I own.
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#2
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NRA Life Member Wilson Combat CQB Kimber Tactical Pro II S&W J-Frame .38 ect " I don't own the clothes I'm wearin', and the road goes on forever " ![]() There's a gator in the bushes, and it's calling my name... COTEP #523 |
#3
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Can you see added value in the dry lubrication coating?
Considering it did wonders for high revving bearings? Note, there's still normal lube involved, i don't advocate running it completely dry. It's just as an extra level of protection. Just like we did on the engines during breakin...
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Stijn Vandamme 08 Dan Wesson PM7-45 < > COTEP PM70562 Ypres , Belgium , Euh-rop |
#4
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Hey if it works, which it sounds like it deffinitley should.. I also run Wilson Combat Ultima Lube Universal but with a small mix of Wilson combat Oil on certain parts. I have never had any problems with any of my stainless 1911s getting galled up with the cleaning and lubes and oil I use. The coating your talking about definitely sounds cool. If you try it please let us know how it turns out.
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2010 DW SS RZ-45 Heritage, 2011 DW SS Valor Bobtail (V-BOB), 2010 DW CCO, 2012 DW ECO, Sig Sauer P238 SAS edition, Sig Sauer 1911 Scorpion (5in barrel), Kahr P380, ,Kahr PM9->Black Diamond coat-Night sights, Daniel Defense DDM4 V4, LMT308MWS, and a FN SCAR 17 "Heavy". COTEP # CCO0488 God Bless Our Troops |
#5
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I'll give it a go this weekend, watch this space...
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Stijn Vandamme 08 Dan Wesson PM7-45 < > COTEP PM70562 Ypres , Belgium , Euh-rop |
#6
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Don't use oil, don't use coatings.Oil disperses and evaporates too quickly, coatings will wear off rather quickly unless you have a means of pulling down a vacuum of a few atmospheres and opening the structure of the steel so the coating can penetrate.
I have been using grease on the rails of my 1911s for over 20 years. I've yet to have a problem with dust or dirt collecting in the grease and my guns have operated in some dusty, nasty places. Basically, you guys are way overthinking this what with all these Space-Age lubes that allegedly work on the surface of the sun and spending way too much money. I use Plastilube. Yes, it was developed during WWII. Yes, it isn't mucho-Tech sexy...it just works. I will direct you gents to the fact that Plastilube was/is the only lubricant specifically-developed for use in Semi-Auto and full-Auto weapons in a harsh environment. AAMOF, much harsher than any of us will ever see. A very small dab on each frame-rail, front, middle and rear, is all you need. I've fired up to 500 rounds of full-power 45ACP through 1911s lubed like this and at the end, the lube was still there and working. ![]() Just a thought, jjjuuusssttt a thought.
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Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas COTEP#CBOB0428 NRA,GCA,OGCA, USAF,Msgt.(Ret.) Last edited by Dave Waits; 10-07-2011 at 12:44 PM. |
#7
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Fair enough, it's not about spending money for me.. I have the moly kote laying around my garage anyway.. The stuff is very durable.. tore down an 911 RS spec engine that was used for rallying... The darn thing had been driven hard for break in.. Normally bearings would be showing wear after 5000 km's.. not so.. the molykote was still on there.
I'm not worried bout dust or grease, i clean the thing to often (it's still new ![]() It's more that i don't like seeing it sweat it's lubricant on the rail...looks messy. so if the molykote can reduce the requirements for lube in that area.. i'm all for it. Not eliminate, jus reduced..
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Stijn Vandamme 08 Dan Wesson PM7-45 < > COTEP PM70562 Ypres , Belgium , Euh-rop |
#8
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Dave,
Thanks for the tip and thanks for the picture. I've always only used quality gun oil so never really slick up the sides, usually just the top and let a little run into the sides. Your picture is worth a thousand words - Thanks. Dennis
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DC USAF (Ret) COTEP CBOB0529 |
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