![]() |
|
Register | Forums | Blogs | Today's Posts | Search | Donate |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
#1
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]()
I guess this would be in the reloading section because it is a question about bullets. Talking to Matt earlier about some reloading I was doing for my range trip this weekend and mentioned I was loading some of my cast lead .45 bullets for the Rock Island 1911. He said that lead isn't too good in 1911s. I have thought lead would not be reccomended in anything with a gas port because shavings could block the port. However 1911 is a straight barrel. I know some say switching back and forth could lead to some lead, and copper fouling layering on top of each other but what about just lead?
__________________
CBOB0746 NRA Life Member Florida CWL Since 1992 |
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]()
I shoot lead in my 1911's without any problems. as long as your lead isn't too soft and the bullets are sized correctly then you should be ok.
fyi, bevel base bullets are more prone to leading since gases can more easily get past the base and soften the lead causing it to streak. if the leading isn't too severe you can shoot a few jacketed bullets and it should clean out your barrel. if you have severe leading then you can use Copper Chore Boy cleaning pads wrapped around an old bore brush for a snug fit. Make sure that you use the Chore Boy brand. The off brands may just be copper washed steel and scratch your barrel up.
__________________
Criminals thrive on the indulgence of society's understanding. I have no such indulgence nor understanding of criminals. Neither does my .45. Last edited by Lonestar grips.; 08-19-2016 at 06:02 PM. |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]()
Lead bullets tend to suffer nose damage in sem-autos, reducing their accuracy.
Generally not a problem if the alloy is hard enough.
__________________
There are no dangerous weapons; there are only dangerous men. To speak without thinking is to shoot without aiming. |
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]()
I load and shoot lead. Like Dick Goesinya said, take a magnet with ya and buy real Chore Boy. Wilson Combat has a video about it
__________________
NRA Life Member Wilson Combat CQB Kimber Tactical Pro II S&W J-Frame .38 ect " I don't own the clothes I'm wearin', and the road goes on forever " ![]() There's a gator in the bushes, and it's calling my name... COTEP #523 |
#5
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]()
Thanks for the input. I cast using wheel weights and have been told that is harder than pure lead. I did shoot some FMJ through it but with free lead I will be shooting more .45 cast. I run them through a Lee .451 sizer. They come out with a flat base.
I was contemplating shooting lead in my M&P40C since I already have .401 dies from loading 38-40. However since that is my EDC I will keep it with just jacketed ammo. Untill I start experimenting with powder coating .401 cast lead and see that it won't lead my barrel. If I can get the powder coating down good then it would open up more casting for Blackout and others.
__________________
CBOB0746 NRA Life Member Florida CWL Since 1992 |
#6
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]()
wheel weights are plenty hard as is for range shooting (generally 9-10 BNH) but if you water drop them they'll be even harder.
powder coating is the best way to go nowadays. if you're still learning about it I suggest you read through this thread. http://singleactions.proboards.com/t...ating-question Dick Thompson aka Sixshot is a Major Handgun hunter and when it comes to cast bullets I trust his word over just about anyone else's.
__________________
Criminals thrive on the indulgence of society's understanding. I have no such indulgence nor understanding of criminals. Neither does my .45. |